tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-266802882024-03-08T09:40:56.694-06:00Letters from Sierra LeoneOne boy's Peace Corps experience, told through letters to his friend Bob.Letters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comBlogger27125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1146019547915904711992-02-04T21:00:00.000-06:002006-04-25T21:45:47.923-05:00Sometimes It Just HappensBob --<br /><br />The mail truck just pulled into the training site at Makeni, where I'm sitting at 9:00 on a hot evening in central Sierra Leone. I trust that a letter or two from you is in my package of mail, but I won't hassle the driver until he takes me back home tomorrow.<br /><br />Lots of folks are running into the city for sodas and beers, but I keep telling them that my time is best used tonight in writing letters. This is the last one I'll write tonight. I've been pretty bad about responding to my Christmas mail, but I have to get my bi-weekly letter off to Bob.<br /><br />Your 28 December and 5 January letters lie open before me. I've just re-read them, and they bring a warm feeling and smile to my face. As I think I noted two weeks ago, the first reading nearly brought tears to my eyes. Not bad, mind you -- even your most "unanswerable" questions serve as further tribute to our friendship bond. Your picture hangs in my living room.<br /><br />Understand that my attempts to define the uniqueness of my experience here were not intended to highlight potential barriers between us. Maybe nobody will be able to completely comprehend the changes wrought in me by the pits and perils of Sierra Leone. I think that your concern that our different life experiences will overcome our commonalities is foundless nonetheless. This, like all things, can serve to make our friendship, our bond, stronger.<br /><br />Last week, Rob and I took a trip to a rather distant village, drinking and recording our escapades all the way. Once in the village, a smiling Rob began to record the Muslim prayer song of one man sitting on his porch. When it was finished, Rob burst into tears, explaining into the tape recorder that "this man has just shared something that is really personal and meaningful to him." Upon reflection, I realized that I had not actually cried since leaving you, Mom, and Dad in the airport in Kansas City.<br /><br />Today, I participated in a forum-panel discussion for the new trainees who arrived last month. I related a story in which my trust had been betrayed here, one which left my throat constricted, unable to continue. I wish I knew myself better. I had no idea that I was going to cry until it just happened.<br /><br />Sometimes it just happens.<br /><br />Sometimes it just happens.<br /><br />Until next time. Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1146017658572368941992-01-22T17:05:00.000-06:002006-04-25T21:14:18.633-05:00Death, Illness, and UnrestI'm back. Mail truck comes today.<br /><br />A little over six months in Africa, and I still miss school. I was laying in bed this morning trying to rest out of the my latest illness, thinking about what I might do when I come back. Some people think about food or electricity. Some people think about music or TV. I think about what school I want to do my graduate work at.<br /><br />One of my students, Foday -- he is Tammy's houseboy and a frequent (and very welcome) visitor to my house -- lost his father last night. I haven't made it out to get many details, but he had told me last night that his father had fallen suddenly and seriously ill. I found out this afternoon he had been suffering from hypertension. Foday took tylenols and food from my house and started to spend the night, but a messenger around 1:00 last night reported that the family had sent to the hospital for a stretcher. Word today was that he had died. How many times in America can we hear a person say "... and I would have died if I wouldn't have got to the hospital." Well, here those people generally die. I'm glad I had my appendectomy back in college.<br /><br />School is underway again. I'm not there today because I don't have any classes to teach on Wednesdays. I should go there anyway, but I'm not feeling too well. The closer I am to a latrine, the better. After I come home, I doubt that I'll ever look at (so to speak) diarrhea the same way again. It can get to be an omnipresent condition.<br /><br />Abu is also here at home today. Two weeks ago, his stool sample turned up with hookworms. Last week, he had a nasty case of malaria. This week, his stool sample turned up with schistosomiasis. None of these explain the persistent pain he's having in his chest. Poor guy. Things have been kinda depressing around the Mr. Mark house.<br /><br />Wish I could give you a rundown on the political situation in this country, but I'm having a hard time second-guessing everything. Apparently, the rebel situation seems to have quieted down for awhile. There are, however, a greatly increased number of people running around with guns. The wielders certainly lack disclipine, and it is not uncommon to hear soldiers randomly firing shots in the air for no good reason. I heard a story a few days ago about someone going into a town south of here and firing a few shots into the air. Rapid rumors gave way to panic and half the population fled into the jungle. Anybody with a gun here can be an effective bandit.<br />As far as I know, elections are still on hold.<br /><br />January 31 is the official date when the government agreed to meet all the teacher's demands. the day rapidly approaches, and the government had been unable to fulfill their promise. The teachers are prepared to sit down, paralyzing once again the nation's schools. Parliament was supposed to meet yesterday in a special session to discuss the situation. I haven't heard what happened. More likely than not, February 1 will be the start of a vacation of indefinite length for us.<br /><br />A strike giving way to violent or otherwise radical reform would probably not be a bad thing. Keeping the country limping along isn't helping anything. You've heard me say before that Sierra Leone is a 5th world country -- but the scary thing is that bulldozing it and starting from scratch would immediately move it into the status of 3rd world. I talked with the Peace Corps Sierra Leone Associate Director for Education a few weeks ago. He argued for the value of pulling out all international development agencies so the people will reform themselves and learn to do things for themselves. Most of the problems here seem to be human-made problems -- social, political, and economic. Until these convoluted problems are eliminated, the country will be unable to sufficiently address the problems of health, nutrition, and development.<br /><br />Getting Rob back from his Christmas in Michigan has been really nice. He had some trouble re-adjusting (and is still feeling it some) to Sierra Leone, but we spent a lot of time together this past week, mostly with a cup of palm wine in our hands. We didn't do much for getting each other less depressed, but we were able to keep some good time together. He doesn't want to teach and he doesn't want to be in the villages any more. That doesn't leave much else. Hopefully he'll snap out of it. Wonder how I'll be feeling this time next year.<br /><br />5:05 in the afternoon now. The mail truck came as I was writing that paragraph about Rob. The truck carried me to Tammie's house where we had a nice meal of rice and plasauce (what else?). I got two letters from you, one of which left my eyes moist as I left it to move to the lunch table. I'll write my response next time.<br /><br />For now, I'll close. They buried Foday's dad this afternoon -- it has to be done immediately with this heat. The last couple of days have been a clue that the hot season is ready to begin. The cool night wind off the Sahara is starting to wane. The coming heat is supposed to be "unbearable." I'll let you know.<br /><br />Need to write my lesson plans for school tomorrow. Nothing on the BBC tonight about the meeting of the Parliament yesterday (5:05 every day is "Focus on Africa"), but the mail truck driver said something about student demonstrations in Freetown. Maybe the ball will start rolling.<br /><br />I'll send this letter with a short-term missionary who leaves tomorrow. This letter will undoubtedly reach before the ones to other people that I put on the mail truck today. I hope to get back on track with my letter writing so we can "talk" on a more regular basis.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1146014754758589141992-01-20T20:16:00.000-06:002006-04-25T20:25:54.766-05:00Post-Holiday BluesBob:<br /><br />Well, it's probably been more than a month since I word processed that last letter to you. It if makes any difference, I'll note that that was the last letter I've written since I finally got back into the swing of things yesterday with some letters to family. Lot of excuses, I guess. The holidays and two trips to Freetown really threw me out of my routine. Further, since my return from Freetown 10 days ago I've been kind down in the dumps. Nothing real bad, but enough that the last thing I wanted to do was attack the stack of Christmas cards and letters on my table. Made a pretty good haul on Christmas greetings -- I guess not being able to answer back quickly can be kind of depressing. Anyway, I'm slowly starting to wade through them.<br /><br />I'll keep adding to this letter, since it'll be a couple days before the mail truck comes.<br /><br />MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145935687098839671991-12-15T21:26:00.000-06:002006-04-24T22:28:07.113-05:00In a Philosophical MoodBob:<br /><br />I'm writing from a word processor at the hostel in Freetown. I haven't typed for over two months. Feels a little strange.<br /><br />I arrived in Freetown yesterday for a conference that begins tomorrow (Monday) and runs through Friday. It is my "re-connect" conference that happens after three months of service. Anyway, I got two of your letters on the mail truck Wednesday and I just got another one straight from the mail room today. So, let me make some responses, then I'll see what else there is to report.<br /><br />Thanks for the football scores. Good to know KSU finished fourth in the conference. Amazing. Got word today that my high school won another state championship. Third in four years. I know that doesn't mean much to you, but I always like to keep up with hometown news anyway.<br /><br />Hate to hear the Community Service Program budget crunch news. I'm glad that projects are continuing. I think I'm familiar with the "Topeka Youth Project." When I attended the Youth Service America national conference in D.C. last October, there were reps there from TYP. I met them, but they seemed very discouraged (and a bit discouraging). The current rage in youth service corps is to pay a small stipend to youths who participate/contribute. TYP was philosophically opposed. I think their own budget problems was a contributing factor.<br /><br />You note that you and Carol mused about me after team interviews one day and that my letter hangs on a bulletin board at KCRI. "She almost didn't accept you when you first applied as a team member; she noted that you seemed most concerned about being near your dentist." This matches my recollection, too. My application was a last minute throw-together that was given to me by a former team member living at Smith House. I just didn't want to spend another summer at home. So, with little academic skill to offer, I applied. No high ideals. No concern for liberty, duty, freedom, or responsibility. I didn't want to stay in Manhattan, either, because I was to have some kind of dental appliance made in Garden City, requiring me to spend several days there. Whatever Carol's reservations, she accepted me. But I'm not the same person I was then, and I'm not ashamed of who I was in the past either. Everything I ever was contributes to who I am today.<br /><br />Nonetheless, I can't help but muse about how different my life would be if she had rejected me. I don't have any idea where I would be today, but I do know that her acceptance set me down a very important and notable path of my life. Do you think Carol realizes how profound her statement "I almost didn't accept him" is for me? My work in Leoti is a footnote in the history of my life, but something I did there moved me in Carol's mind from "little boy who wants to be near his dentist" to "student who may be able to contribute administratively to the program." Even now, I can see that I'm different from the boy that entered the office back in August of 1989. I was studying math education. I wanted to do some coursework at Manhattan Christian College. I was a Republican. I had no direction.<br /><br />I've learned so much. That boy met Mr. Bob Burns soon after beginning work for the Community Service Program that semester. I tried to act like a man. Even as early as those first meetings, you talked to me about work on your dissertation. You talked about publishing work on the Community Service Program. You talked about the kinds of things that academic children don't talk about. You helped me grow up. You said "I accept you for what you are capable of" and made me to understand my potential.<br /><br />I changed my major. I flew to conferences on both coasts. I learned about prejudice and hatred and what they do to people. I learned about drugs and hunger and why they exist. I learned about people. More importantly, I learned about myself. I've learned so much about myself. I learned to stand by what I believe so that I can look at myself and be happy with what I see.<br /><br />On this path, I met myself. Maybe I could have met myself on other paths as well, but I am well pleased with the Mark that I've found. The other Marks -- the ones I would have found on other paths -- wouldn't have a friend/brother named Bob. The other Marks wouldn't be building latrines in Africa. With every bite of rice I eat, I thank God for setting me on the paths that brought me here. I won't thank Carol for accepting me, but I recognize the contribution that her decision made to my life. The important thing is that Carol continues to accept me and understand how that fateful decision fits in my life.<br /><br />The funny thing is that I never did go to the dentist that summer. The poignant thing is that I still lay awake at night sometimes and think about home. The important thing is that I can look myself squarely and not regret anything in my past.<br /><br />You've evolved, too, since we met. Perhaps I've just got to know the real Bob better, but I think we've changed together. Maybe I'm just afraid to think that I've changed while you've just hung around to oversee it. I really wonder how different we would be if we had never met. You are my closest friend. You know me better than anyone. You understand me better than anyone. You accept me more than anyone. You have helped to shape some of my biggest decisions and you have been the only one with me when I have had to break down and cry. Even now, I've typed a lump into my throat.<br /><br />You yourself are facing an uncertain future. Do what you need to do. If you want to get out of education, get out. If you want to leave KSU, find another job. Go to Ball State. Go to California. Life is waiting for you wherever you go. Just make sure that you are going to like the Bob that you meet down the path. I, for one, will be there to meet him.<br /><br />Kamakonkwie beat Kamabonko 1 goal to 0 in last week's soccer match.<br /><br />I think I reported before that the camera battery worked fine and that I'm taking a lot of pictures, but you keep asking. Thanks again.<br /><br />Hope your semester ended well. Seems strange to think that I've sat out an academic semester. I have to fight the feeling that I've wasted my time. I know that I haven't, it's just that I've psychologically conditioned myself into the quest for higher education. I trust that you've received my <a href="http://lettersfromsierraleone.blogspot.com/1991/11/essay-on-community-service.html">essay</a>.<br /><br />So, Friday, 28 February 1992, 10:00am, will be a big day -- I realize this is your defense day, not graduation day. I remember when I told you that I was disappointed that I would be out of the country and therefore unable to attend your graduation. You expressed surprise that I would attempt such a trip even if I was in the country. I guess I was surprised by your surprise. I'm pretty sure I would have made every effort to see sunny Michigan. Certainly, no matter how long it took to accomplish the task, you have every reason to be proud of your work. As we say in Sierra Leone, "no shame." You should let your family and friends do everything they can to make it the occasion it ought to be.<br /><br />Life goes on in Sierra Leone. It's now Friday night, and most of my training group has dribbled in for tomorrow's conference. For the most part, this once-spirited and hard-driven group of people is broken and discouraged. Four of us are gone, and I've talked with two others who have come to grips with the idea of leaving this place behind and returning to the comforts and dangers of the First World. At least half of my group are requesting site transfers because their jobs just aren't working out. Peace Corps Sierra Leone is facing the exact same problem that KSU-Community Service Program Summer Teams has faced in the past -- a lack of good sites due to economic factors. Anyone who gets a Volunteer here has got to provide a viable house with furniture, a latrine, and a nearby water source. As the economy here sinks to the lowest depths of utter hell, fewer agencies are able to make the commitment for a Volunteer. There are plenty of places where Volunteers are needed, but if you don't have a house....<br /><br />Anyway, this is the first time I've been out of my site since I came down for my birthday. I've been busting my ass to make things work in Kamakwie, and I can honestly say that I'm enjoying the work. I've had the time of my life the last three weeks. I've made 34 latrine slabs, and I've began plans for wells, drying floors, and a road. I've been teaching more periods a week than any other Peace Corps Volunteer teacher that I've talked to. I've spent the night in three different villages the past two weeks, and they've given me rice, wine, oranges, bananas, chickens, and a goat.<br /><br />I've been accused in the past of having a capacity to deal with adversity, but this is a supreme test. I was talking to a Volunteer yesterday who has just returned from a medical evaluation to D.C. (really bad dental problem). She said that she could see a real change in herself. She said, "People say 'so how's Africa?' and all you can do is just look at them because they have no idea what they are asking." That question isn't like "so how's your folks" and you just answer "fine." The answer is a complex assortment of reasons (and non-reasons) precisely why things aren't fine here. We can listen to USA for Africa sing "We are the World" and listen to the statistics for inflation, disease, infant death, and illiteracy, but unless one lives it one CANNOT understand it. That same volunteer says that she loved her hot showers and variety of foods when she was back, but she doesn't think she'll be able to return to America when she finishes here. The waste and ignorance is just too much. I've adapted fine, but I'm curious what adapting back is going to be like.<br /><br />Teaching continues. My initial frustrations have virtually subsided. I guess I stopped trying to teach at the level I expected the kids to be learning and opted for the level where they actually can learn <u>something</u>. For my Form IIIs, that means addition, subtraction, multiplication, division of whole numbers and some work with fractions. I'm curious to see how they do on the exam that they'll be taking Tuesday morning. I hope that there is no more teacher strikes at the beginning of next term.<br /><br />Rebel incursions have really heated up all along the southern and eastern borders. The rebels have apparently got ahold of some heavy artillery (better than what the government forces have) and came up with some Sierra Leone army uniforms. Lots of reports of dead people and victories on both sides. Kamakwie is not in danger, but I had to come through six military checkpoints to get here yesterday. Actually, only one checked bags. The other five just stopped all vehicles and demanded bribes. I don't think they would know a rebel if they saw one.<br /><br />Well, this one is getting long so I'll try a smaller font and close. It's been nice talking to you. I doubt this reaches you by Christmas, but I hope you've had a good one. I'll certainly be thinking of you through the holiday season.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145766398661075281991-11-24T22:38:00.000-06:002006-04-24T20:24:36.270-05:00An Essay on Community Service<u>Because You Can</u><br />by Mark A. Hager<br /><br />[<a href="http://lettersfromsierraleone.blogspot.com/1991/09/request-from-bob.html">Written for</a> the 1992 Kansas State University Community Service Program Seminar Reader.]<br /><br />Welcome to the world of public service. If you're serious about it, it will change your life. If you're not, hold on to your hat. Nobody enters and exists this world through the same door.<br /><br />Not so long ago, I endured a series of discussions with service providers where the central question was "Why do you choose to dedicate your time to serving others?" The only conclusion I can draw from the variety of answers I heard is that people hold a wide range of philosophies regarding service. Even though most answers were carefully scripted and well-rehearsed, the motivations were as diverse as the people who divulged them. Social analyst Nancy Gibbs notes that "if 80 million adults are volunteering, then there may be 80 million impulses for doing so -- whether political, professional, spiritual, or personal. The precise mixture is measured from needs within and needs without. In the end, the decision to volunteer usually occurs at a crossroads, where moral indignation and moral responsibility meet." Everyone has their own motivation and philosophy. I offer mine solely because it is what I have to offer.<br /><br />The fine line between moral indignation and self-righteousness is often just a matter of personal rhetoric. If you can fool yourself into believing that you are serving a cause "because you like helping people," then you, like the vast majority of service providers, will be seeing only part of the picture. The world is too big a place and has too many real problems for us to see our social responsibility solely in terms of personal interest.<br /><br />I'm trying to get at two grains of truth here: the first is that our motivations are seldom what we think they are. The second is that volunteering to help someone should never be accompanied by a desire to get a pat on the back. If the word <u>humanity</u> means anything, it means that you should lend a hand to others for one simple reason: because you <u>can</u>.<br /><br />By popular legend, America was built through an attitude of Volunteerism. Somehow, though, the American culture has become so highly individualized that we have to re-learn what it means to consider others' interests as important as our own. Today we read about barn-raising spirit and true community, but we are out of touch with the real meanings that these attitudes must have conveyed. Twentieth century America is a "me first now" culture. Even our religious doctrines focus on notions of personal relationship rather than civic responsibility. Theoretically, if all of us "succeed" as individuals, then there is no need to consider the success of the whole. In practice, rugged individualism results in broken spirits and broken homes, hungry neighbors, and a destructive attitude of superiority toward other races, other countries, and our natural surroundings. Unless we re-awaken ourselves to understand our civic responsibility to care for others, the social fabric of America will continue to fray.<br /><br />Ironically, my words about the American condition come to you from an isolated town in West Africa. Recently, the United Nations Development Programme released its rankings from its 1991 Human Development Index. Sierra Leone had no problem ranking 160 out of 160 countries studied by the UN. With the highest infant mortality rate in the world, the average Sierra Leonean lives to 42 years. The adult literacy rate stands at less than 14 percent, which is no surprise because the average "years of school" for the Sierra Leonean population is less than one. Rampant inflation, devaluing currency, rebel incursions, corrupt officials, tropical diseases, twelve languages, decaying roads, and an absense of water works and electricity make Sierra Leone a truly interesting place to work and play. A woman recently wrote in a Florida publication that the miracle of Sierra Leone is that "you wake up and it's still there." I, however, don't think of it as a miracle. The way the people in this country survive from day to day can be summed up in one word: <u>community</u>.<br /><br />True community is as hard to define as it is to achieve. If you think I'm talking about a "place where people live," then quit reading now because you aren't going to understand me. I'm referring to the sense of communal dedication and responsibility that Scott Peck and others write so extensively about. I'm talking about commitment to a body of brothers and sisters. In a community, you don't serve another for money, for glory, or even just because you want to. In true community, the motivation to serve another is so basic that it seems almost trivial: you serve because you <u>can</u>. In Sierra Leone, a person is revered for giving his or her money away -- not for being able to amass it. I've seen a large bridge made from sticks and vines by the self-help efforts of an entire village. I've toured large farms that are developed through back-breaking labor solely by community effort for the community good. If you <u>can</u>, but you <u>don't</u>, you might as well find a new place to stay. In Sierra Leone, the rugged individualist doesn't live very long.<br /><br />So what was I saying about the social fabric of America? Granted, Sierra Leone and the United States are two very different places, but they are made different solely by the differing attitudes of the people within, which in turn are shaped by history and the availability of resources. One hundred and fifty years ago, however, the places were not so different. Diligence in development and technological advance have no doubt made America an easier place to live, but they have also taken their toll on the national soul. The age gap widens. The gender gap widens. The rich-poor gap threatens to swallow us all. Individuals escape from hollow marriages and abusive parents into television and drugs. The proliferation of computers in the schools is no more notable than the proliferation of guns and knives. Inner-city gangs outnumber youth service corps, and standards of education are consistently compromised. Industrial development spells industrial wastes and a growing indifference toward environmentally sound methods for disposal.<br /><br />All of this is the result of development and technological advance? Well, probably not. Certainly the answer is not deconstruction of our development -- the answer lies along the lines of a pathological change in our attitudes. I thnk we can learn a lot from the lessons taught by the people of Sierra Leone. Service should not be a means of seeking a perk on our emotional résumé; service should be a simple end in itself.<br /><br />Two summers ago, my good friend's mother asked me, "Mark, what is the answer to the world's problems?" My answer came quickly: "We need to all love each other more." We have to re-learn what it means to consider others' interests as important as our own. We've got to be in touch with why we're doing what we're doing and take responsibility for it. No doubt you've heard that the price of liberty and freedom are fulfillment of duty and civic responsibility. That's the deal. If you can't answer the call, you're part of the problem. If you <u>can</u>, that's all the reason you need to kneel down in the ashes of the world to serve those around you.<br /><br /><br /><em>Mark A. Hager is a Peace Corps Volunteer in Sierra Leone, where teaching secondary school and constructing latrines give him an excuse to drink palm wine. He served on the Leoti, Kansas, Community Service Program Summer Team in 1989, and was the student coordinator for summer teams from 1989 to 1991. He was awarded the B.S. in Speech from KSU in 1990.<br /></em>Letters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145926114611826281991-11-24T19:29:00.000-06:002006-04-24T20:15:41.306-05:00Where I Should BeBob --<br /><br />Just a short note this time to accompany this rough draft of the <a href="http://lettersfromsierraleone.blogspot.com/1991/11/essay-on-community-service.html">essay</a>. It's as polished as it's going to get, I'm afraid. It has its moments, I think, but as a whole it is a bit weak. The last academic writing I did was in early May. I'd appreciate a copy. My fellow Peace Corps Volunteers here feel that a version of it should appear in our Peace Corps Sierra Leone publication. Maybe I'll work something up.<br /><br />Thanksgiving is Thursday, but I'll probably be eating rice instead of turkey. Peace Corps wouldn't let me go to Guinea.<br /><br />Thanks for the football news. News from home has my old high school marching to another undefeated season. Hope the Cats were able to win a few more, too.<br /><br />Hate to hear about the Community Service Program and the proposed budget cuts. Sure wonder what happened. I owe a lot to that program, but I, too, sometimes question how many people the thing really reaches. I know "if it helps one person..."; but it never really lived up to its potential. I can't help but understand the plight of the budget cutters. Maybe Marv and Carol will start to give some administrative attention to the program. It needs it.<br /><br />Thanks again for the camera battery. I've been making up for my lost time in shooting pictures.<br /><br />Got the package from Fran Irelan's class. Very nice. I need to sit down within the next couple of days and write a BIG letter to the class. This letter is rushed because Rob is carrying it to America for me next week. He is leaving tomorrow, so I want to get it in his hand....<br /><br />I, too, would like to talk with you via the radio one day. Realize that Sunday night there is after midnight here. Maybe another time. I'll try to call collect via telephone next time I'm in Freetown.<br /><br />Hate to hear that you'll be unable to make a visit. I certainly understand.<br /><br />Haven't heard from Carol yet. In fact, the only KCRI-er I've heard from is Spuds. Carol has a University of Minnesota address that I want.<br /><br />School started here a few weeks ago. I guess I probably said that in my last letter (which I know is running into some postal snags, by the way). Frustrating. Language barriers. Poor math foundation. Poor attitudes. Poor system. Ack.<br /><br />Rob leaves me his latrine project in full swing. He's really leaving me with a huge chore. I guess I'll be busy for a little while.<br /><br />Abu just came back from trying to buy some notebooks for school. He says, "Sierra Leone will soon turn into a hell." Yesterday he bought notebooks for Le 260. Today, they are asking Le 300. It gets harder and harder to make ends meet.<br /><br />Hope your semester is ending well. Seems really strange that a semester got by while I was playing around in Africa. Could have been one step closer to that degree. But then again, I need to be in touch with what is really important. I'm here. I'm glad I'm here. If I was there, I would wish I was here. This is where I should be. I'm getting more of an education here than I could get in any school. This is a necessary step in my destiny. It's warm here. I have a house. I have an income. I have a cat. I serve a purpose. People bring me chickens. And bread. And oranges. My friends write me letters.<br /><br />Bob -- this is a tough place to live and it's getting tougher all the time. What does the future hold for Sierra Leone?<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145924723786449211991-11-13T16:49:00.000-06:002006-04-24T20:17:16.800-05:00Waiting for the Mail TruckYo Bob:<br /><br />It's 4:49 in the afternoon and the mail truck is a couple hours later than usual. Thought I'd pry your envelope open and scribble a few more lines.<br /><br />I was just sitting on my back porch playing "draughts" -- a slightly more complex checkers game -- when a helicopter came over. I guess it set down up at the hospital. Don't know if they were bringing somebody in or med-evacing someone out. Probably the former. In any case, it's probably somebody rich or important. This really is a good hospital. Anyway, you should try to imagine how these people reacted to a <u>helicopter</u> flying over this place. Everyone was out to see it go over, and I could hear excited chattering all around me. The four guys with me on my porch took off for the hospital. Abu wanted to take "my" bike (actually assigned to a newer PCV near me), but I couldn't justify letting him take it to chase a helicopter.<br /><br />I hope my bike comes today on the truck. Heck, I just hope the damn truck <u>comes</u>. I get really psyched up about getting mail twice a month. If it doesn't come today, it will be a big letdown.<br /><br />Oh -- I remembered one of those things I'd like to get. I've been trying to write a little bit of short fiction (yeah, "Why doesn't he write the <a href="http://lettersfromsierraleone.blogspot.com/1991/11/essay-on-community-service.html">essay</a> instead?) but I don't know much about it. If you can come across a text or other book on writing short stories, I'd probably get some good out of it.<br /><br />School was frustrating again today. I really don't see how my Form III math students could have passed the exam to enter Form I. Maybe they didn't. It's really possible they didn't.<br /><br />5:30. Still waiting for the truck.<br /><br />More next time.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145848815585967281991-11-12T21:43:00.000-06:002007-01-30T17:50:44.350-06:00Teaching Begins, and Education ContinuesBob:<br /><br />Haven't heard from you for a month, so I'm expecting a big haul in tomorrow's mail truck. I'm feeling pretty good about how I've been in my letter writing to everybody. I've written more letters than I've received -- individual exceptions to you and my Mom.<br /><br />The adventure continues. This is now the second week of classes -- it feels good to finally be getting into the classroom, although it is as frustrating as everyone said it would be. More than once, I've recalled the philosophies of band-aid approaches to development. I feel like a small band-aid on a festering wound. I can see the value of building a latrine, but today my Form III (roughly sophomore high school level) students couldn't tell me what 7-3 is. After yelling at them for about five minutes, I wanted to cry. How many different ways can you think of to explain that 7-3=4? Sure, Abu has 7 mangoes and Fatu takes 3 away, but then how do you explain 3-7? Negative mangoes leaves them with a blank expression. Frustrating.<br /><br />Haven't been to Freetown in over a month, but even if I'd been there I don't know if I'd splurge for stationary. I'm not sending random scraps -- I really do think about who gets what scrap when I write letters on the backs. I thought maybe the order of service for this "money service" -- a pretty typical order -- might be interesting. The service lasted a little over two-and-a-half hours, and I didn't understand much of it. The music was cool, though.<br /><br />By the time you read this, my service will be 1/6 complete. No, I don't sit around ticking off the days -- I feel increasingly adjusted. Nonetheless, I miss you, my other friends and family. Last night, Rob and I were drinking palm wine with some other guys. He was being pretty quiet while I was talking to another guy. When I asked what he was thinking about, he said he was having a big daydream about what getting off the plane in America would be like. He said he thought he could expect around 20 people there to greet him. I told him I thought I could probably expect 3 -- the same three that put me on the plane. That's not a sad thing -- it just provided some discussion about the differences between our families. I think plenty of people will be glad to see me -- they'll just wait until I happen to be in the neighborhood to show it.<br /><br />One of the palm wine discussions I had last night was with a guy I'd never met before. The discussion was about U.S. foreign policy. He was looking very hard for an argument, and he was as well-informed about international affairs as most non-Americans seem to be. I mean he knew his stuff. I remember sitting in 760 last year while Maribel ran circles around everybody with facts and incidents on international affairs. Americans (I'm making a rash generalization here) tend to be really stupid about international happenings. Anyway, I like to think I was able to hold my own. He started out by talking about all the international conflicts that America doesn't take an interest in. Then he noted that America's interests in the sovereignty of Kuwait is inconsistent with the apparent lack of attention we give to other conflicts. I felt like he was really trying to make the most of a coming verbal battle when he pointedly articulated how he thought the war was fought for oil and that America chooses its battles according to its own economic interests. He ended with flourish, giving me an opportunity to "defend" myself. I said "Right." This clearly wasn't the response he was looking for. He says "What?" (Sometimes there is a language problem.) I said "Correct." He looked as confused and disappointed as a cat when a mouse simply jumps into its mouth. Anyway, the whole thing ended up being one of the more indepth discussions I've had with a Sierra Leonean. Being miles away from Tom Brokaw and having BBC to listen to every day, I'm more in touch with international affairs than I ever have been. I don't think I care more about them -- I haven't been able to thoroughly break out of my American socialization -- but at least I know more about them.<br /><br />Yes, I've started the <a href="http://lettersfromsierraleone.blogspot.com/1991/11/essay-on-community-service.html">essay</a> for 701. It is titled <u>Because You Can</u> and is a synopsis of my philosophies on service. I had hoped to send it out on this mail truck, but I haven't gotten very far on it. I expect to meet your Christmas deadline, however.<br /><br />I have tentative (very tentative) plans to spend Thanksgiving in Guinea. Three female and one male missionary from the hospital need one more male to meet their gender quota for overnight excursions. They've asked me to go on a four-day trip (Nov 28, 29, 30, Dec 1) to Conakry (the capital). I'm likely, however, to run into several travel restritions as a "new" Peace Corps Volunteer. I wasn't able to make my case in person, and I haven't heard yet how my request to Peace Corps administration is turning out. Heck, you won't receive this letter by Thanksgiving anyway. Ack -- the perils of international correspondence.<br /><br />Still on the latrine business. Built a double slab yesterday (helped, that is) for a trench latrine here in town. I've got to check a couple potential sites here today, too. Further, two Volunteers just showed up on Rob's doorstep so we have to entertain them tonight. I'm responsible for going to find wine. I'm not sure when I'm going to write my last letter -- one to Mom and Dad -- before the mail truck comes. Now that I've got a real job, scheduling has gotten a little tighter.<br /><br />Periodically, I find myself thinking "I need to tell Bob about that" or "I need to ask Bob for that," but I can't for the life of me think what some of those things might be. I called Mom via ham radio last week, and I asked her to give you a call. Hope she did.<br /><br />I'm currently suffering from what is probably giardia, although I have sufficient aversion to the idea of shitting in a cup to avoid going to the hospital. If it gets worse or persists, I'll go. For now, I'll go ahead and sprint to the latrine every once in awhile.<br /><br />Abu contines to be a great source of information and assistance. He is now one of my students, so now I'm seeing the flip side of the teacher-student-friend relationship. I'm sure it will work out well.<br /><br />My cat is growing larger, but needs its shots.<br /><br />I'm gaining weight and not shaving. Both are good.<br /><br />Haven't heard from Fran Irelan, but expecting to soon.<br /><br />Seems strange that your semester isn't too far now from being over. Hope it is going well. I look forward to hearing from you tomorrow.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145846070499770321991-10-29T21:00:00.000-06:002006-04-24T20:19:03.420-05:00Life, Here and ThereBob!<br /><br />I'm on my bi-monthly writing binge, trying to get a stack ready for tomorrow's mail truck. I've got two of your letters (from a month ago...) in front of me, so I will begin with normal, obsolete, polite responses to your life events before I delve into my own.<br /><br />Thanks for the stamps. The climate here effectively stuck them all together, but I soaked them in water to get them apart and immediately adhered them to envelopes. Thanks for the basketball motif.<br /><br />I think Community Service Program expansion in Kansas is silly. If the focus is to be teams (as you suggest) then I would say that KSU's program is not sufficiently "overloaded" to warrant expansion. Heck, we don't even get enough community applications to be at all selective. Sure, a concerted effort could probably shake loose quite a few more applications, but that is still the role of a single institution. When that mechanism is in place, then maybe expansion is warranted. I always felt that our CSP was really into shallow expansion expansion expansion before it concentrated on getting any depth. That way, you get a lot of nothings instead of a few real somethings. Replication of the model in other states might be viable, but replication at KU is silly.<br /><br />Thanks for the football and baseball news. I'm VERY much looking forward to the mail tomorrow to hear more. If you didn't tell me the outcome of the KSU-KU football game, I'm going to be pissed. The World Series should have ended last night or the day before. I think I heard that the Series was tied at 3-3, but I haven't heard the result of that last game.<br /><br />International <u>Newsweeks</u> have been pretty good about keeping me abreast of Presidential primaries. I was glad to see Kerrey throwing his hat into the ring.<br /><br />My journal is blank. Are you keeping my letters?<br /><br />My seminar <a href="http://lettersfromsierraleone.blogspot.com/1991/11/essay-on-community-service.html">essay</a> is taking shape in my mind.<br /><br />You should quit smoking.<br /><br />Teacher's strikes continue here. Tomorrow is a Union meeting, but I have no reason to believe that anything significant will come of it. I have been keeping busy, however, moving full swing into these latrine businesses. Rob and I took a whirlwind tour of twelve or so villages this past week. He told me that it had been the busiest week he'd had here. This is the first real chance I've had to sit down and relax (?) for about a week now. I'm getting constant visitors, but I'm knocking out a few letters and hope to read some today.<br /><br />I'm hoping for a good haul of letters tomorrow. I haven't heard from Peg or Carol, or T.J. or Chet for that matter. Generally, I have been really pleased with how my friends have been holding me, but there are exceptions. Experienced Peace Corps Volunteers report that letters from home really go downhill after the first months. I know that you won't let me down.<br /><br />I'm still frustrated that my camera isn't working. There has been quite a few Kodak moments in the past week that have got by uncaptured. Many times, I have been an honored guest with wine, food, and fowls; yet I haven't captured the experience on film or paper. I guess its kind of like smoking -- I know that one day I will regret not capturing these experiences, but I can't bring myself to do anything about it.<br /><br />I've also been embroiling myself in the local economy. I've got seeds for my small garden, and I hope to do some small-scale farming next year. I'm soon beginning to raise chickens in my backyard, and I've got a pig across town. My neighbor is trying to get me involved in some mining. He's got the miners, but just needs to get his licenses and his exporting connections.<br /><br />Already the day is half over and I've only got to my second letter. I wanted to get out 13, but I'm not going to make it. Visitors keep poring in. Sometimes I just want to lock my doors. Twenty-one months 'til I make it home. Just as I was warned, sometimes I love it here and sometimes I hate it. Either way, it is a terrific experience. Either way, I'll be glad to see my friends and family again.<br /><br />The Catholic sisters put up a new radio tower. They can call a phone patch in the States and make collect calls. Don't be too surprised when you get a call from me. I look forward to hearing your voice.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145823130116238691991-10-14T15:07:00.000-05:002006-04-23T15:12:10.116-05:00Return to BusinessBob --<br /><br />I'm not sure how the Peace Corps vehicle made it back up this abysmal road. It has deteriorated a lot since I last came up it, alternating between nasty rocks and giant mud holes. Anyway, I'm back home in Kamakwie, and I'm realizing how much I enjoy it here. I had to get out to realize it, but my site is <u>everything</u> I could have ever hoped it could be.<br /><br />Rob got an okay from Administration to pursue funding for he and I to facilitate construction of 98 pit latrines. We'll be busy. His selling slogan: "We're so full of shit in Kamakwie, we've got to have a place to put it all."<br /><br />I bought a pig (pregnant) so me and another guy can start a piggery. I'm also working on some farming and mining projects. Now if school starts, it sure could throw a kink into the works! Anyway, I'm busy and learning a lot.<br /><br />MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145821116084403621991-10-09T13:28:00.000-05:002006-04-24T20:20:05.826-05:00Birthday in FreetownBob: I've got three of your letters with me here in Freetown. Two arrived on the mail truck last Wednesday, and I brought all my mail that arrived that day with me as I rode back on the mail truck. One more arrived this past week. One advantage of being here at the hostel is that I can go check for mail any time. I'm here attending a meeting for the Volunteer Representative Council, but I'll comment on that more after I've addressed a few things in your letters.<br /><br />Your September 8 letter: I'm glad to hear (albeit secondhand) that Carol is thinking about swinging this way on her Africa tour. I hope you are still milling potential plans around in your mind, too.<br /><br />One frustrating thing about being here (that I sure didn't expect) is that I can't keep up with college football scores. I sure appreciate the highlights that you have sent. Even though KSU never played very good ball while I was there, there was something magical about just being able to go and cheer or boo with all the other people in purple. I really miss it.<br /><br />I'm glad to hear that Wes changed into Social Work. Ballsy move. I hope he's happy. Tell him I'm proud of him and I'm behind him all the way. I hope that your decision to include him in your close circle of friends has been good for you, too.<br /><br />Your September 15 letter: Visions of cold weather in Manhattan bring a wistful smile to my face. Good memories. The rains here are supposedly slackening, but this weekend in Freetown has been a wet one. By the end of the month, they should be pretty intermittent. By the end of next month, they will be almost gone.<br /><br />Thanks for the birthday greetings. Your two letters arrived in Kamakwie on October 2. Your September 22 letter I picked up on my birthday, October 4. I received timely birthday greetings from you, my parents, Dan, and my brother Don. I actually heard from a lot more people this week, but the birthday greetings was not an explicit part of it. Nonetheless, I felt very supported.<br /><br />I spent my birthday sitting on the beach, swimming in the ocean, and eating beach food. I bought myself a beach shirt, and I accepted sodas and beers from Volunteers who wanted my birthday to be a good one. It was. The day was beautiful, and I thinkI was wise to dedicate my birthday to a day of rest at the beach. Now I'm 23 and living in Africa. Ph.D. by 31? We'll see.<br /><br />I don't know what to say about your job. As you have noted, by the time my response arrives, the mood swing may be long gone. However, this swing of yours has been recurrent. I think it is a foregone conclusion that you may be happier somewhere else. But then again, maybe not. Only you can decide. Wherever you go, my letters will follow you.<br /><br />I hope things continue to go well with the dissertation. Keep me posted.<br /><br />How are Tom and Tandy handling the teams? I really do have complete confidence in them. What new developments are happening with the CSP? KCRI?<br /><br />I will compose that <a href="http://lettersfromsierraleone.blogspot.com/1991/11/essay-on-community-service.html">essay</a> on community service that you wrote about last month. Writing has been coming very easy to me of late. Too bad the journal is collecting dust. Anyway, when I get back to Kamakwie I'll think through it and set aside some time to compose it. I doubt that I'll make it back to Freetown to type it, so I appreciate your offer to do that for me. But keep these letters just in case.<br /><br />Thanks for your continued encouragement. I have periodic twinges of homesickness (especially when I read and write letters), but I think I am adjusting pretty well to the surroundings. The country is oppressed politically, socially, and economically -- this impacts everything -- but the micro-aspects make the stay here worthwhile. The people are friendly, the palm wine is abundant, and the weather is nice. I have a roof over my head and food for my mouth. I don't have a job yet, but I've been able to fill my time.<br /><br />I have no idea when the teaching strike will end. Every week, I hear "next Monday," but Monday comes and goes without any attempts in opening the schools. After reading the most recent list of demands in a recent Freetown newspaper, I'm pretty pessimistic about the idea school will start any time soon. Even if this term does get off the ground, one demand is for additional raises (significant ones) in January. This may mean more strikes in January, assuming that the current one ends before then. I've heard from several sources that we may be given options for reassignment (to another country) if the strike lasts into December. My initial reaction is that I would like to stay here rather than go through the whole cultural training and adjustment again, but I don't know how I would react to being jobless for another two months.<br /><br />I have been able to keep somewhat busy, but I think I've described those activities in previous letters. I have really enjoyed the past weekend I've spend in Freetown. I don't like the city, but seeing other Volunteers has been good. The last three days I've participated in meetings of the Volunteer Representative Council. I represent about eight of us along the Kamakwie road. I like it so much because if was so <em>familiar</em>. A small group of people who make an agenda, work through issues, divide them, work on them for a day, reconvene, report back findings, brainstorm some more, split up again, write, meet the next day with the administration with our agenda, make reports, write up results, send letters, and have a few beers. I felt like I could have done this forever. There was one day that I forgot to eat. My agenda item is called "money matters," and I got to read policy manuals for living allowance increases, draft letters, etc. I was right in the middle of an incredibly efficient committee that interfaces with a helpful and productive administrative staff. The secretary is currently on my butt to finish up my reports for the minutes, but she can just wait.<br /><br />Anyway, I've got a list of things to buy yet before I head back up-country in a couple days. then I'll dig in and... I don't know. Keep visiting villages, I guess. Look for a project proposal to write. Build a few latrines. Teach during the evenings. Maybe school actually will start before too long.<br /><br />Well, Bob, that's the news from here. You could do some research for me: what are considered to be (according to some published sources) the top ten (or so) schools in sociology and/or rural sociology? What kinds of interesting things (programs, degree tracks, assistantships) do some of these schools offer that might appeal to me? What other schools have some interesting things? I figure that you know my mind as well as anyone.<br /><br />Thanks, and I hope all is well.<br /><br />Now the chairman of the VRC is chewing on me to get my reports done. Good thing this one is coming to a close.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145825841225185941991-09-29T15:57:00.000-05:002006-04-23T16:07:04.893-05:00Into the VillagesBob: On the mail truck last week, I got your letters dated 18 August, 20 August, and 24 August. I only had six letters and a small package from home -- three of the letters were from Sweet Ol' Bob. Thanks for your diligence. I hope you have a sense of how much I appreciate it.<br /><br />Missing people is tough. Even when I used to be surrounded by the familiar, anyone I missed was just a phone call away. Now, I've only been on the phone one time in the past 12 weeks. Sometimes 2 years seems like a very long time, and sometimes it seems very short. I've already completed nearly 1/8 of my service time! By the time you receive this, that will almost certainly be true. My Close of Service date is in July of 1993. I'm going to try to accomplish all I can in that time.<br /><br />I heard from Dan in France. His letters are in the format of a small newspaper (complete with advertisements, cartoons, puzzles, etc.) One of the headlines was Bob "Burns" through Maine -- a short report on the hurricane that his family endured. He asked me how you're doing. In another article, he mentioned a friendship that he was developing with a guy a little older than himself. He said that he hoped that the friendship would be like "you and Bob."<br /><br />Thanks for your contact with Fran Irelan. When this letter goes out on the next mail truck (this Wednesday), it will be accompanied by a letter to her and a letter to the World Wise Schools program in Washington. I hope everything works out okay.<br /><br />I just took out my camera to take a picture of two boys who wanted to sell me bread off the top of their heads when the camera refused to work. Shit. I don't have my little book with me, but I think the signal I'm getting is for the battery. Shit. If you can come up with a Quick Shooter Zoom 2 battery (lithium DL223A 6 volt), I'd REALLY appreciate it. I don't know what I'll do if a new battery doesn't fix the problem. I'll look around in Freetown next time, too. Damn.<br /><br />Now I'm looking at your August 24 letter. It seems almost silly to respond at length to something you wrote over a month ago. Most of it is probably obsolete. Thanks for telling me about the CSP team party at Carol's house. Sounds like the usual good time. Really wish I could have been there, but in some respects I'm glad I wasn't. It's hard to explain. I guess I've moved from one job to another where I have more respect and responsibility and control. (Or less, depending on how you look at it.) Anyway, I've accepted that I've left that behind. I miss the people, but I like this hands-on work better. Which brings me to "letter to Carol." Thanks for the warning that she's been expecting a letter from me. I've written a sizeable letter to her that will go out the same time this one does.<br /><br />This past week, I had a real strong, strange sense that I ought to be preparing for class. It was more than just preparing to teach -- I do that a lot anyway -- it was a sensation that I needed to be at a university. It wasn't the usual "gee, I miss being at school" feeling. Maybe I was just bored and the old "do something" response kicked in while I still had the old "do something for class" mentality. Hope I don't lose it.<br /><br />Right now, the welcome short break (via the teacher's strike) is turning into a too-long break. Although I'm pretty much able to keep busy, it's not a real productive kind of busy. I'm hearing fairly solid rumors that there is some kind of settlement between the Union and Government and that school will start before too much longer. I've been warned, though, that if I'm expecting the school to make me feel "productive," then I'm in for a big let down. I'd be safest to expect the worst and plan to be really frustrated. We'll see.<br /><br />I think I've mentioned one Volunteer here named Rob. He's from Michigan, but he really is a good guy. He has gotten heavily involved in a secondary project (his primary project is teaching biology and health science at the school) involving the construction of pit latrines in neighboring villages. He is involving me in his current project in a small village called Kasasie. In Kasasie, ~160 people live in 22 houses. There are only 2 working pit latrines in the village. It was a great experience for me to watch Rob work with the community spirit of these people to hammer out an agreement. We will supply cement, molds, transport, tools, and technical support to their sand, rock, water, and labor to construct 11 new latrines. On our last trip, we mapped the village and sited the latrines, roughly one per two households. The head of each house held a short conference with their co-latrine-head to decide where it should be. Then they agreed to have five feet dug in the holes before they invited us back to inspect them.<br /><br />I think I've mentioned it before, but community development and self-help are part of the vocabulary and part of the lifestyle of the people. There is, however, a dangerous mentality that the white people will dig them out of their problems when they have nowhere to turn. This is putting a serious damper on the ingenuity of true development. Are we just perpetuating that mentality? Maybe.<br /><br />The Wesleyan mission called on me to assist them this past Wednesday. They had me drive the Land Rover (same make and model as in The Gods Must be Crazy) to a pretty good sized neighboring village where four hospital workers conducted an immunization clinic. I got to tally polio, tuberculosis, measles, etc. shots for over 80 or so children under 1 year. There is an impressive media campaign in this country to educate mothers on the importance of immunizing their children. There are signs and posters everywhere. I guess in a country that has the highest infant mortality rate in the world, the people would be ready to listen. Anyway, driving the vehicle wasn't so bad, but the roads were NASTY. In some places, I'm not sure why the Land Rover didn't tip over. After sweating profusely, I was glad to get back and head off to the villages where the palm wine is. I'm glad I'm not a missionary -- they can't touch the stuff. I kinda get all the advantages (well, a few anyway) of being a missionary without the disadvantages.<br /><br />The missionaries here are very friendly. I've been enjoying Sunday nite fellowship with them, which includes electricity and sometimes includes a cold drink. Both doctors play chess, and one of the women gave me a haircut this past week. I'm trying to avoid getting too wrapped up in the people at the mission -- that would certainly compromise the Peace Corps experience -- but they are nice to have around for sanity's sake.<br /><br />Well, my cat is now toilet trained and sits quietly in my lap. I haven't seen a cockroach in my house for around ten days. I haven't seen Jeanne for as long. I'm meeting lots of people, and they seem to be accepting me fine. My language isn't progressing too quickly, but a lot of people seem to speak pretty good English. The food is good and the rains are cool.<br /><br />I hope life is good in Manhattan. It's strange to think that school goes on there without me. I look forward to hearing from you in Wednesday's mail bag.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145763417507542291991-09-18T22:23:00.000-05:002006-04-24T20:21:40.643-05:00A Request from BobDepartment of Regional and Community Planning<br />College of Architecture and Design<br />302 Seaton Hall<br />Manhattan, Kansas 66506-2910<br /><br /><br />MEMORANDUM<br /><br />TO: Eric Becker, Wesley Ray, Mark Hager and Mark Horrigan<br /><br />FROM: Bob Burns<br /><br />RE: Essays on "community service"<br /><br />Some time ago I asked each of you to write a reflective <a href="http://lettersfromsierraleone.blogspot.com/1991/11/essay-on-community-service.html">essay</a> on "community service" to be placed in the collection of assigned readings for the spring 1992 Community Service Program Seminar at Kansas State University. I greatly appreciate your willingness to do so, and believe that class members will gain from the insights you share with them.<br /><br />As you know, the CSP seminar comprises weekly sessions to help student teams prepare for their two-month summer projects in Kansas communities. These sessions focus on such topics as the concepts of "community"; community development; team-building; conflict management; and survey preparation, administration and evaluation. Readings shall be assigned for each topic. Your essays shall be assigned for the "wrap-up" session, traditionally presented by the CSP founder, Dr. Marvin Kaiser, Associate Dean of the KSU College of Arts and Sciences and Director of the Kansas Center for Rural Initiatives.<br /><br />The intent is for your essays to be personal observations and musings on community service and civic responsibility. The "slant" you decide to take and the essay length (five to ten pages?) are up to you. I would be happy to discuss ideas.<br /><br />Thank you for your willingness to undertake this task. We appreciate very much your contribution to the education of our students.<br /><br />cc: Carol Peak, Director, Community Service ProgramLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145762401544707271991-09-17T22:15:00.000-05:002006-04-22T22:20:01.546-05:00Abu's NoteMr. Mark<br /><br />Sorry I didn't say this earlier to you. It is because I forget too much and also I was having too much works to do this week. Please Mr. Mark I want you to help me for money to buy cloth and take it to the tailor to make a school trousers. Also, I will like to sell to you one of my buckets. I want to use that money on the way. For the uniform trousers roughly Le2000. For the bucket Le 600. We talk more tomorrow. I will be here around 6:30 to 7:00.<br /><br />Abu BLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145762016627719851991-09-17T22:11:00.000-05:002006-04-22T22:14:11.463-05:00James' NoteMr. Bob,<br /><br />It is my of introduce myself to you as a friend of mine. Because Mr. Mark your friend told me about you well. However, I am also want to be a friend of mine like Mr. Mark.<br /><br />Your friend,<br />James B. TurayLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145761835373935451991-09-17T21:43:00.000-05:002006-04-22T22:10:35.383-05:00Settling InBob --<br /><br />I'm trying to finish up letters to send with the mail truck scheduled to arrive tomorrow. I had one of my frequent visitors, James, write a few lines that I'll include with this letter. James is probably around 17 or so, and will be starting Form 2 (there are 5 Forms in secondary school) this year. He left his family and village last year to come to the school here. His family sees no value in education, but he was the top student in Form 1 last year. He wants to work for me, but I'll probably end up helping with his school fees either way.<br /><br />I left yesterday evening to attend a dinner that a missionary family held for we five Peace Corps Volunteers and Tammy's visiting cousin. Rob and Tammy have been here one year. Jeanne and I are settling in. Anyway, we had a meal of cow, corn, beans, cucumber salad, and chocolate cake. Strange meal for Kamakwie. Afterwards, we watched the <u>Jungle Book</u> on VCR. REALLY strange for Kamakwie. It was like being in an American household. It's nice to know, though, that it's there if I ever really need it.<br /><br />I came home last night to a note that I'll include with this mailing. It is from Abu, my worker who has been an incredible help and I trust implicitly. He has worked the past year for Tammy (and for two other Peace Corps Volunteers before her) so Tammy wanted to include him in a week's vacation to Kabala. He left this morning, and wanted to take care of business with me. Well, in the darkness my tired eyes misread the note. Among other things, I thought he wanted me to buy a bucket for him for 6,600 Leones. I was confused and angry and couldn't get to sleep. Well, I read the letter again this morning with clearer eyes and better interpretation. All he was asking for was money for uniform trousers (which I feel responsible for because I pay his school fees) and <u>600</u> Leones (the first "six" is a "Le" which is like our $ sign) for a bucket he wants to sell to me. I felt a <u>lot</u> better. I sent 2000 with him and I'll send up 750 more (for the bucket) with Tammy who will meet him tomorrow.<br /><br />The other side of this page is song lyrics I wrote down while in training. It was part of my scrap paper/letter writing pile. Hope you enjoy it. The last card you gave me in America with the Gaelic blessing inside hangs on my den door, along with a "K-State!" sticker, a Peace Corps bumper sticker, and a "Mr. Hager" sign. It's slowly starting to feel more like a home.<br /><br />School still hasn't started yet. There was supposed to be a union - government meeting yesterday, so maybe I'll hear something soon. If things don't start soon (and probably even if they do), I'll join Rob in his latrine-building projects out in the villages. Villages are cool, but communication is difficult. I spent one 24-hour period either blasted or hung over on palm wine last week. I'm trying to get my body acclimated to stuff so I can be accepted in normal social circles. It doesn't taste too bad, and you have to get used to straining insects through your teeth, buts it's STRONG stuff.<br /><br />I'm enclosing some pictures. More later. Share these at KCRI.<br /><br />Love, Mark<br /><br /><br />Spirit<br />by The Waterboys<br /><br />Man gets tired<br />Spirit don't<br />Man surrenders<br />Spirit won't<br />Man crawls<br />Spirit flies<br />Spirit lives when man dies<br /><br />Man seems<br />Spirit is<br />Man dreams<br />The spirit lives<br />Man is tethered<br />Spirit free<br />What spirit is man can be<br />What spirit is man can be<br />What spirit is man can be<br /><br />What spirit is<br />The man can beLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145760033274818121991-09-09T21:15:00.000-05:002006-04-22T21:40:33.283-05:00Volunteer GloryBob --<br /><br />Well, I'm a Volunteer now.<br /><br />I enjoyed the four days spent in Freetown, although this city, probably like most third world cities (or most cities if you're me), is a little unsettling. Over a million people, and no power of its own. There are quite a few generators for independent homes and businesses, however. We stayed in a pretty nice hotel -- it had running cold water and electricity about half the hours of the day. There are some really nice restaurants and beach bars, and I think I found most of them. One bakery looks and feels like its straight out of New York City (or so how one man from Connecticut described it). The patrons of this bakery were 90% white at any given time, a comment on the affluence of the enviroment. On the beach, I ate a pizza at another ex-patriot hangout called The Venue. The beaches are really nice, but a lot of beach vendors bug white people incessantly. I've heard several times now that "An American is a rich white person who ought to buy anything he/she wants." I saw people look really puzzled when I said I didn't want to buy something. Their only explanation is that I must be trying to get a better price, so they keep on with the sales tactics. A quiet time on the beach, unless you can get away to a more seculed area, is unheard of.<br /><br />The swearing-in ceremony was like any graduation you've seen before, absent family. I had the honor of delivering the "Vote of Thanks" on behalf of my graduating class. Whether by skill, education, or blind luck, the speech meshed perfectly with the rhetorical situation. It was easily the best-received speech I've ever given. The first half of the speech was given in Krio (and by all reports, pretty damn good Krio I might add) so the class looked pretty good in the eyes of the ministers/diplomats and other host nationals in attendance. The trainers all beamed like proud parents. All my colleagues fell over themselves to come up with praise for the speech, with the notable exception of my nemesis and Kamakwie counterpart Jeanne, who continues to be a thorn in my side. Anyway, it was a really positive experience. Normally, rites of passage seem really superficial to me, but the transition from Trainee to VOLUNTEER is built up to be a big deal here. It was.<br /><br />I was nervous those last couple of days before arriving here in Kamakwie. Getting here and moving in was mostly a positive and reinforcing experience. I feel like I am moving up and down a wide continuum ranging from elation to total depression. Last night, I hunted down six giant cockroaches in my bedroom before I finally got brave enough to go to bed. I don't have a pillow yet. The Muslims started praying at 5:30 AM. I didn't mind too much -- I hadn't slept very well anyway. I had a <u>really</u> hard time crawling out of bed this morning. I couldn't conceive of crawling out of this bed every day for the next 22 months. I got up, lit some candles, opened some windows. The unsmashed cockroach I saw this morning was a dead one -- probably killed by the powder and spray I put out last night.<br /><br />I've been writing since I got up, and I'm already feeling better. Abu showed up to cook some corn pap. He said that cockroaches are a new acquisition for this house (it has been empty for awhile) and that once we start cooking again, the smoke should chase out the bats and cockroaches. I hope so. I'm looking for poison today anyway.<br /><br />School is supposed to start tomorrow, which means I have my first staff meeting then. I'm not sure what the status of agreements is between the Teacher's Union and the government. Some teachers will teach. Some will hold out. I'll be trying to find my place in it all. I'm anxious to get my house in order and start teaching. Keeping myself busy in an ordered environment will be very important.<br /><br />The mail truck will come every two weeks. I guess I will start several letters to different people and then supplement them until I have to surrender them to the mailman. It will be strange having a bunch of unfinished letters lying around. I've been thinking very seriously about getting my journal out. I think I'm on the verge of producing some serious philosophy. Only one way to find out.<br /><br />Until next time...<br /><br />MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145749506790830671991-08-28T13:59:00.000-05:002006-04-22T18:45:06.800-05:00Support for BobBob --<br /><br />I got three of your letters on your birthday last night. I'd been trying all day to sit down and write a few lines, and then the barrage of mail came. I got letter #3 late last week, and #2, 4, and 5 yesterday.<br /><br />I'll try to answer some of your comments first, then I'll ramble on for awhile...<br /><br />Rail study appears to be meeting with a variety of successes and failures. What is the time table looking like on that thing? What kinds of things are you finding out? Tom Daniels' late resignation may favor your chances for tenure-track opening, but how do you feel about it? You can't put your money on the Urban Institute, but does your love-hate relationship with KSU continue? I get a really strange feeling whenever you talk about leaving. It's like "Wow, Bob is leaving." I know that seems REALLY irrational -- maybe I haven't adjusted to the reality of being gone myself. Classes probably began today. It's a strange feeling not being there.<br /><br />As I mentioned in an earlier letter, I would very much like to see you next summer. Canary Islands is a good idea -- I talked to one Volunteer who did it last summer. Another (probably less expensive) idea is vacation in Sierra Leone. Let's keep talking about it.<br /><br />As I may have mentioned earlier, you may opt to use the international mail address. It's probably faster, and I haven't heard of too many problems. Thanks for the stamps, I think. When I opened your latest letter, out popped my very own Desert Shield/Storm sticker set. So now I, too, can honor those who served.<br /><br />I hope the Kansas City team is able to look back favorably on the summer's events. It certainly sounds like they had some adventures. How would you rate their success? How does their success compare to last year?<br /><br />I'm glad to hear of all the progress on the dissertation. I hope your latest trip to Michigan was a good one. I'm sure your committee / major professor was pleased to hear of Mr. Chang's logistic regression correlation between survey results and (lagging?) economic indicators. Then again, I'm sure you were pleased when you found out about it yourself. It won't be long now. Certainly, the great majority of the work is complete.<br /><br />If you've held true to your goals, you have joined the ranks of the non-smoking. Congratulations. I'm proud of you. Swimming, good eating, and church are all worthy, too, but too much virtue at once can be a real shock to the system. Be careful that you don't overdose on health.<br /><br />Well, I hope you spent your birthday well, and I hope classes are progressing well. Life here, too, goes on. In six days, we go to Freetown for the final phase of the training. I'm looking forward to eating a cheeseburger. In less than a week, I will officially become a Peace Corps Volunteer. That's a big deal. There is a lot of responsibility that comes with the letters PCV, more than I ever thought. It's not so much a matter of liberty, duty, or freedom -- those are parcel to nationalist rhetoric -- as it is a matter of Responsibility to the well-being of Others in the world. As you and I have discussed before, I believe that we have a Responsibility to use the advantages and talents that we have to serve others. It's the big "R".<br /><br />Anyway, I'll be pretty glad to be done with training. It's been pretty intense. This week and last, we've been doing our practical training at Makeni. The afternoons this week have been reserved for instruction in indigenous languages. Me and another guy have been studying Limba. This stuff makes French look real damn easy. I figure if I can pick up a little Limba in Kamakwie, fine. I just want to "get through" the technical instruction.<br /><br />Well, it's 1:54 and I've got 4 hours of Limba beginning at 2:00. Ugh. I'll sign off for now. It's 8:54 AM there at home.<br /><br />One request: If you've completed <u>Skinny Legs and All</u> or don't reasonably think you ever will, can you send it to me? No big hurry. Book swapping is popular among Volunteers, and I think this would be a good one for some of the folk here.<br /><br />Keep after it, Bob. Your little brother in Africa thinks of you a lot.<br /><br />Love, Mark<br /><br /><br /><strong>National Anthem:</strong><br />High we exalt thee,<br />Realm of the free --<br />Great is the love we have for thee.<br />Firmly united, ever we stand,<br />Singing the praise O native land.<br />We raise up our hearts and our voices on high --<br />The hills and the valleys re-echo our cry.<br />Blessing and peace be ever thine own,<br />Land that we love our Sierra LeoneLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145750579989580851991-08-19T18:48:00.000-05:002006-04-22T19:05:49.243-05:00First Trip to KamakwieBob:<br /><br />Our practicums begin today and will last throughout the next two weeks. Actually, today we just spent the morning watching our coordinators present lectures. They've somehow bribed students to be here to listen to the lectures.<br /><br />I sent a pretty long narrative to my parents describing the site visit experience. I wish I could photocopy some things to send. Anyway, the trip there was quite an interesting experience. We showed up at the lorry park on Wednesday morning at about 8:40. We were some of the first Kamakwie road travelers, and the transport won't leave until it is full. Shortly after 11:00 AM, this truck about the size of a VW bus had ~23 people, 12 bags of flour, and 5 bags of rice. Breathing was usually possible, but movement was a precious commodity. During the journey on (literally) one of the worst roads in the world, we were searched by the military, ran out of gas, blew a radiator hose, walked up a treacherous hill, and arrived in a rainstorm in the dark. The 55 mile trip took a little over 8 hours.<br /><br />But getting to Kamakwie seems to be the worst part -- the city seems to be a cool place. The principal (who nobody seems to like) gave me a warm reception and treated me very well. I had an American meal at the mission compound and a tour of the hospital. I drank palm wine and talked about politics with a bunch of guys. I listened to Aretha Franklin and drank whisky shots (ugh) with the principal. I got to see my empty and desolate house, but I stayed in the house of a vacationing Volunteer -- Rob. I hired my houseboy -- Abu. Jeanne (she and I seem to be developing a genuine dislike for each other) travelled back yesterday with another Volunteer who has a vehicle at the national park -- Pam. That only took 4 hours, the "normal" amount of time in good conditions.<br /><br />I hope it doesn't take too long to adjust, because I can get really depressed sometimes. I don't foresee any real problems, but I am following a legacy of heroic Volunteers in Kamakwie. I'll have my hands full just trying to find my place and meet expectations. Anyway, I'm sure I'm equal to the task.<br /><br />Haven't heard from you for a couple weeks. The mail system is a real thorn in the side. Anyway, more next week.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145747204084541461991-08-11T17:47:00.000-05:002006-04-22T18:08:31.186-05:00Connections to HomeBob!<br /><br />A (probably) belated HAPPY BIRTHDAY to you. I would've sent you a card, but there aren't any. I hope you can discern my glowing sentiments through the recycled paper.<br /><br />I failed to write last Sunday. I hope such lapses do not happen too often. Illness (my temperature reached 103.6 degrees) depleted any desire I had to sit down and write down reflections on my situation. Also, I will plead busy-ness, as we have just completed our most packed week -- the last before our site visits on Wednesday. After we return next Sunday, we will have a week of educational practicals. Then wrap-ups, swear-ins, a few days on the beach, and then I'm Kamakwie bound. I'm looking forward to visiting in a couple days, but I doubt that it will feel like home on that first, brief trip. I'll let you know.<br /><br />I got your first letter about ten (or so) days ago. Getting letters is quite a status symbol around here. One guy got a package from home last week, and we are still worshipping small icons of him. The most popular item in the box was the newspaper his mother used to pack the items in. Using the D.C. address is "safest," but it takes a long time. I haven't heard of anybody having any problems with the international air mail address, though, and it might be much faster. That is, c/o Private Mail Bag, Peace Corps, Freetown, Sierra Leone. Might give it a try. Send stamps.<br /><br />I guess I'm settling in okay, although I occasionally wonder what in the world I'm doing here. There is an American professor who teaches here -- he came here as a Peace Corps Volunteer ~17 years ago -- who gave us a number of VERY INTERESTING lectures this past week. His name is Joe Opala, and I guess he is pretty well known, in the right academic circles. He has done a lot of research on the historical connections between Sierra Leone and the US. A number of slaves were brought to South Carolina and Georgia from here, and Freetown was founded by re-patriated American slaves. The interesting thing about that first connection is that Sierra Leone salves who were brought from this rice growing area to the rice growing climate along the souteastern seaboard also brought malaria and yellow fever with them. As a result, they were able to live relatively free of white control and preserve their culture for many generations. They came to be known as the Gullahs. Pressure from the Army pushed some of them down with the Seminoles in central Florida. The Trail of Tears relocated many black Seminoles into Oklahoma, and some eventually ended up in Texas and Mexico. Consequently, there are residuals of culture and pockets of language which are very similar to the language I hear here now. PBS produced a special (last year, I think) called "Family Across the Sea" which chronicles the research done on this connection. If you could find a copy of it, you could at least get a good look at the people and places I'm coming to be a part of.<br /><br />I have no doubt that your summer is more hot and humid than mine. The bad part is that there is no escape when the heat does come. All we can do is hope for cool rain, which comes frequently. Many Volunteers have friends who come to visit, and many of them make trips home. Both are expensive. Anyway, I want you to know that you would be perfectly welcome to spend a month in my home in Kamakwie next summer. A few injections and a couple thousand bucks would buy quite an interesting vacation.<br /><br />I will mail a brief letter to KCRI today also. Looking forward to your next letter.<br /><br />Love, Mark<br /><br />P.S. My journal remains blank, and I already feel guilty enough about it! Hang on to these letters.Letters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145680452700126311991-07-30T23:01:00.000-05:002006-04-21T23:34:12.736-05:00Village Visit to MayagbaBob: I missed writing you on Sunday because I was holed up in a Little African village. My village visit took me to Mayagba, a typical (I guess) slice of central Sierra Leone. I learned a bunch -- I'll try to put as much as I can in as few words as possible. Families are extended and villages are communal. Its a community developers dream. they farm cooperatively. If you don't contribute to the community, you get punished. Their every-day lingo (when it's in English) includes "community" and "self-help" and stuff like that. Me and the guy I was with in this village (Jeff, a Texan who sold his share in a corporation to teach illiterate children how to work with wood and metal) wrote a development proposal for the village in hopes of securing aid from the U.S. Embassy. We know that the village should have wrote it -- our impact/writing was contrary to development philosophy -- but even their most educated were not prepared to sit down and draft a proposal to an American funder. Anyway, Jeff drew maps and I did the wording in hopes to fund a food storage facility for their community crops. The community would provide all the labor -- all they needed was money to buy materials. Our budget, however, was sketchy at best and we were unable to identify a project supervisor. I really hope they are able to get over their hurdles and complete the process.<br /><br />I never got to see the inside of my host's house, but what I could see looked crowded, dark, and dirty. I say "host's house," but I guess there really wasn't any sense of ownership. Parts of families might have their beds in several different houses. Aunts are mothers and cousins are brothers. We walked right through the middle of people's cook spaces to get where we were going. It is all very contrary to the American notion of privacy and the nuclear family. My room, however, was a small private room just off the side of the porch, i.e. you didn't have to go in the house proper to get in my room. I had expected that I would eat with the family (whatever that is), but instead their custom was to bring food to the stranger's room and let them eat by themself. I had some really great meals. Pineapple, coconut, cassava, banana, eggs, rice, beans, and different rice toppings (plasauces) made from groundnuts, cassava leafs, and/or potato leafs. People do some really creative things with the foods. I did witness several people dipping into a big bowl of monkey meat, complete with skulls and all.<br /><br />My room was an interesting sleeping environment. Something (or things) that defied my attempts to expose it (them) to light kept me awake at night. Squeaking sounds, quick movement up walls, and a half-eaten banana led me to suspect a combination of lizard/cockroach/rat. On the third night I got my mosquito net up, giving me some peace of mind. On the fourth (and final) night I left candles burning all night. It kept things relatively quiet, although the combination of sleep, rodents, burning candles, and straw mattresses gave me something new to worry about.<br /><br />No doubt, it was a very educational experience. I witnessed the building of a bridge from sticks, bamboo, and natural rope. I attended church at a small mission church outside the village. I was asked to bless the offering. After church, we witnessed the burial of a 12-year-old girl in the neighboring village. A very sad, somber occasion. Usually its pretty much only infants that die (and a lot of them) but once they get over the hump, these people are very healthy.<br /><br />Learned some Temne. English was NOT widely spoken in Mayagba, and the custom is to greet everyone you meet. Luckily, the greetings are few and weren't too difficult to learn, but when people digressed or went past the greeting, I was sunk. Many people liked to sit around and teach Temne words and phrases, though. I had my first bucket baths, and used my first pit latrine. They won't be my last.<br /><br />Now, as I run out of room, the real news: site placement announcements revealed yesterday that I will be teaching at the Kamakwee Wesleyan Secondary School, in Kamakwie, Northern Sierra Leone. Excited. I'll remember to write more about it next week, but at least we know where home will be.<br /><br />Received one letter from Libor at Smith House, but am still awaiting yours. Looking forward to them.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145711968293793621991-07-21T07:55:00.000-05:002006-04-22T08:19:28.300-05:00Training DaysHello Bob, how are you?<br /><br />Sunday nite at the Panlap Training Site. I'm wishing I'd kept better track of what I'd written to you last week so I don't leave things out, repeat, etc. Anyway, things continue to go well. The body has gone through a few of the changes -- mild fever, aches, diarrhea ("runny belly") -- but I'm feelin' pretty good today. I watched one of the Volunteers here go through a mild case of malaria in the past day or so. He got achy and his fever shot up around 104 degrees, but he took his Fansidar and is feeling better today. A lot of people don't get off so easy.<br /><br />I was in classes all last week. The focus so far has been on Krio, culture, community development, medical, and "general orientation" type stuff. All is being done pretty well, I think. The staff here is very capable.<br /><br />Yesterday afternoon, I participated in a practical on latrine building. We got to dig some on the hole and mix some concrete for the cover. It was a neat experience. It was particularly meaningful for me, because I was asked to give blessings for the work being done. I hadn't even noticed that the group was gathered -- I was over watching the hole being dug -- when I heard my name being called and saw everybody looking at me. I went over to the group. The African veterinarian in charge of the site said a few words and then gave me two kola nuts, explaining that "He who gives kola gives life." I then had everyone hold hands as I gave brief blessing to "the ancestors and any gods we call our own." I was well received. It felt really good to be selected by my peers for this honor. I certainly do have my place among them.<br /><br />I made it back to Makeni last night for beer and a sandwich. I'm just not used to cities -- especially this kind. The roads are in disrepair, and poor vendors line the sides of the streets. I'd probably come to terms with it if I'd get into the middle of it and buy something, but so far I've just been an observer. I'd rather go to Panlap to Aunty Y's to sit in a bafa and sip palm wine. That's more my style. In 8 days I find out where my placement is. I know the options include a small village on a beach, just South of Freetown. I will envy whoever gets that assignment.<br /><br />Do you hear any reports of the fighting here? We can't get anywhere near a lot of parts in the South. The propoganda you might hear (I'm not sure how much I can say here) is that rebel forces from Liberia led by Charles Taylor have looted up into and occupied parts of Sierra Leone. Other sources support the idea that the uprisings are internal. In any event, the occupation is likely to just dry up and go away -- at least that is what some say. The uprisings are not popular enough to be sustained.<br /><br />On Thursday we will be placed in groups of three or four in villages to live for several days. I'm looking forward to another trip to a village. I've been visited the last several nights by a group (5-6) of children from Panlap. I got to know one of the gatekeepers here (Mohammad), so I guess his little brother came to see this Mark character. I was completely surprised the first night. They came to the dorm window, apparently, asking for Mark. One of my fellow trainees found me in the dining hall and announced I had guests. Here I found Philip, Aja, Benjamin, and Franceska. I had no idea who they were or where they'd come from. I was just lucky to suspect Mohammad and ask the children if they knew him. "Yes," said Philip, "he is my brother." I wish he's just come out and said it, but that isn't their way. We went to Panlap and I bought them all sodas. Then, the Paramount Chief shows up. I said "Chief," (probably a good thing I don't know his first name) "can I buy you a beer?" He says "I never turn down a good offer." This guy's picture is in a Smithsonian exhibit titled "Paramount Chiefs of Sierra Leone" and I buy him a beer. Cool. He severed up palm wine and told stories and answered questions. Then we dropped off the young'uns on the way back.<br /><br />The next night they appeared again, and sat quietly for about 90 minutes while I was teaching a girl how to play chess. There were six of them then -- another cousin and a boy named Ishmael. When they told me they wanted to go, I walked them to the gate and watched them disappear in the night. If they return, I'll take pictures.<br /><br />I haven't heard from anyone yet. Still, I look forward to your letters. Hoping you are well.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145678274429362811991-07-12T22:25:00.000-05:002006-06-14T13:50:34.156-05:00ArrivalShit, Bob, I'm in Africa.<br /><br />Day 2-1/2 or so. The lag on the flight to Europe seriously messed with my time clock. Six hours from Paris to Freetown and a four hour bus trip to the PANLAP training site completed a 40 (or so) hour virtually sleepless journey. Arriving about 2 AM, we first spent some time meeting our training staff, made up mostly of Sierra Leoneans.<br /><br />(Aside) I just looked to the North to see the sun drawing down about to the level of the palm trees. The few clouds send a multitude of colors into the lower sky. As I sit and contemplate this beautiful site, I ask myself "Why is the sun setting in the North?" and then I think "Gee, its going to be a long two years if I have no sense of direction."<br /><br />Anyway, yesterday we got up fairly late (noon or so) and ate a hearty spaghetti meal. They will be weaning us onto African foods. The staff hired a small band of bamboo pipe blowers, drum pounders and cowbell-like-thing beaters. We followed (traveled with) the indigenous music makers to a village (Panlap) about a mile, uh, north of here. Lots of folk came out to smile and wave as our procession processed to the reception hut of the paramount tribal chief of the chiefdom I now reside in. After rituals of introduction and exchange of cola nuts, I got my picture taken with the chief. Should be cool.<br /><br />The trip back included a bunch of youngsters who wanted to hold our hands. When we got back to the site, they sang and danced for us before moving on. That night, our staff put on a show of song and dance. First a song highlighting seven different languages here, and then we sang along with a recording of Three Dog Night singing "Joy to the World." Last nite I sat outside (about where I am now) and wrote the parents. About half of us sat outside and wrote letters/journals, asking questions of each other about names of places we had been.<br /><br />I got the dreaded Gamma Globulin shot yesterday (along with a rabies shot) which is notoriously painful. The initial needle isn't so bad, but walking back to the main hall was a chore, and I could still feel it a little today. Everyone agrees, however, that the shot is less of an ordeal than Hepatitis A.<br /><br />This is quite a beautiful place. Mountains, surface waters, palm trees, vegetation. However, diseases fatal to those of us who haven't evolved out of it await us in all these places. The MD gave quite a lengthy and compelling lecture today on the value of medications and personal hygene. Made a believer out of me.<br /><br />[Next day, July 13]<br /><br />Walked to MAKENI last night after that sunset, about 2 miles, uh, south of here. Went to a little veranda/bar with a bunch of Volunteers who showed up to present a panel discussion. Paid 130 Leones for an orange soda (about $0.45) and a beer for 200 Leones (about $0.65). STAR beer. Pretty good stuff.<br /><br />The Country Director posed a question to some of us math types. Apparently, he believes that some of the fuel is being cyphoned off in transit to the training site. The fuel, which runs the generators here, is quite a precious commodity. Anyway, we are going to figure out volumes of the tank and increments of fullness to determine if some is being lost (or if we are getting what we pay for). Anyway, hence the scratches above. Didn't want to waste the paper.<br /><br />I just got back from a village visit. Eight of us went with two Sierra Leone staff people to the village of Roketteh, a little place, uh, east (?) of MAKENI. I guess there are about 500 in Roketteh. Makeni is closer to 30,000. This was SO COOL. First, different folk showed us around. When we got back to the middle of the village, three women were making music with drums while several of us danced. We each paid about 20-30 Leones to the women. We went into a reception area then and met the chief (not a paramount chief) who was wearing a "Buffalo News" orange stocking cap. The people here (mostly the men) wear a lot of T-shirts from the West. One kid had a JOURNEY concert T-shirt on. Anyway, there was a short welcoming ceremony conducted in Temne (we had an interpreter) and included gifts of coconut and a dish of rice and cassava leaf. Good stuff. They opened the coconuts which were brimming with clear milk. Good stuff.<br /><br />They love to have their picture taken. I pull out the Olympus and there are 20 kids trying to crowd into the focus area. They don't get too close or too far away and they seem to know how many will fit into the frame. I don't have to change the focal length or anything. *CLICK* and lots of smiles.<br /><br />More dancing and Temne words, and then we came back. Times like this make me really glad to be here. Everything I've ever read, heard, or seen about African culture, food, music, dance, and spirit is being played out before me. And I'm a player in it, too. Well, almost.<br /><br />Other times, I really feel the stress. Yesterday I got hit with the feeling that my loved ones are 2 years away and that something totally foreign awaits me. Huge bugs. Malaria. Heat. New people. A language or two I don't understand. Monday we begin Krio. On the 29th we get our site placements (though we don't move there for two months). Exciting and scary. They say that's how it's supposed to be.<br /><br />Looking forward to your letters.<br /><br />Love, MarkLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145674966113226241991-07-07T21:56:00.000-05:002006-04-21T22:02:46.113-05:00Checklist of Things to TakeRain suit (pants/jacket)<br />Umbrella<br />Short wave radio<br />AA batteries<br />Walkman<br />cassettes<br />Film<br />Camera<br />Cards<br />Swiss Army Knife<br />Canteen<br />Backpack<br />Medium pack<br />Stamps<br />Plastic bags<br />Driver's License<br />Mail stuff<br />Hiking shoes<br />Rubber boots<br />Tennis shoes<br />Dress shoes<br />Sandals<br />Towels<br />binoculars<br />Extra glasses<br />Swim suit<br />Lock(s)<br />Fingernail kit<br />Shampoo/conditioner<br />Soap<br />Baby power<br />Shorts<br />Sweatshirt<br />Casual pants<br />jeans (2)<br />Dress pants (3-4)<br />shorts (3)<br />T-shirts (8)<br />Dress shirts<br />Underwear (24)<br />socks<br />dress socks<br />Converter 220-110<br />Shaving cream<br />Alarm clock<br />Watches<br />FrisbeeLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26680288.post-1145674370825112441991-04-18T21:43:00.000-05:002006-06-14T13:48:17.713-05:00The InvitationThe United States Peace Corps<br />1990 K Street, NW<br />Washington, DC 20526<br /><br /><br />Mr. Mark Hager<br />331 N 17th<br />Manhattan, KS 66502<br /><br /><br />Dear Mr. Hager:<br /><br />It is with great pleasure that I am writing to inform you that you are invited to enter training for Peace Corps Volunteer service.<br /><br />Please review all of the enclosed materials carefully. Though your invitation is contingent upon final medical, legal and security clearances, you have reached a crucial decision point in the application process. Now it is particularly important for you to examine your motivation and your expectations. We believe that you are ready to make a firm commitment to volunteer service, but the decision must, of course, be your own.<br /><br />If you decide to accept our invitation, you must telephone our Placement Office within ten (10) days. Instructions for calling in your decision are listed in the enclosed Invitation booklet. If we have not heard from you within that time period, we will assume that you are no longer interested or available and will withdraw the invitation. The reason for this is so that we can invite another applicant in order to guarantee that the assignment is filled on time.<br /><br />Regardless of your decision, I thank you for the personal interest you have expressed in world peace and friendship. I strongly encourage you to rededicate that interest by accepting this invitation and joining more than 140,000 Americans who have been proud to make a difference as Peace Corps Volunteers.<br /><br />It is not easy -- building peace never is -- but it is needed -- now more than ever.<br /><br />Sincerely,<br /><br />Jill Nadler<br />Volunteer Placement Officer<br />Human Services Division<br />Office of PlacementLetters from Sierra Leonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00536975470955732721noreply@blogger.com