Bob!
I'm on my bi-monthly writing binge, trying to get a stack ready for tomorrow's mail truck. I've got two of your letters (from a month ago...) in front of me, so I will begin with normal, obsolete, polite responses to your life events before I delve into my own.
Thanks for the stamps. The climate here effectively stuck them all together, but I soaked them in water to get them apart and immediately adhered them to envelopes. Thanks for the basketball motif.
I think Community Service Program expansion in Kansas is silly. If the focus is to be teams (as you suggest) then I would say that KSU's program is not sufficiently "overloaded" to warrant expansion. Heck, we don't even get enough community applications to be at all selective. Sure, a concerted effort could probably shake loose quite a few more applications, but that is still the role of a single institution. When that mechanism is in place, then maybe expansion is warranted. I always felt that our CSP was really into shallow expansion expansion expansion before it concentrated on getting any depth. That way, you get a lot of nothings instead of a few real somethings. Replication of the model in other states might be viable, but replication at KU is silly.
Thanks for the football and baseball news. I'm VERY much looking forward to the mail tomorrow to hear more. If you didn't tell me the outcome of the KSU-KU football game, I'm going to be pissed. The World Series should have ended last night or the day before. I think I heard that the Series was tied at 3-3, but I haven't heard the result of that last game.
International Newsweeks have been pretty good about keeping me abreast of Presidential primaries. I was glad to see Kerrey throwing his hat into the ring.
My journal is blank. Are you keeping my letters?
My seminar essay is taking shape in my mind.
You should quit smoking.
Teacher's strikes continue here. Tomorrow is a Union meeting, but I have no reason to believe that anything significant will come of it. I have been keeping busy, however, moving full swing into these latrine businesses. Rob and I took a whirlwind tour of twelve or so villages this past week. He told me that it had been the busiest week he'd had here. This is the first real chance I've had to sit down and relax (?) for about a week now. I'm getting constant visitors, but I'm knocking out a few letters and hope to read some today.
I'm hoping for a good haul of letters tomorrow. I haven't heard from Peg or Carol, or T.J. or Chet for that matter. Generally, I have been really pleased with how my friends have been holding me, but there are exceptions. Experienced Peace Corps Volunteers report that letters from home really go downhill after the first months. I know that you won't let me down.
I'm still frustrated that my camera isn't working. There has been quite a few Kodak moments in the past week that have got by uncaptured. Many times, I have been an honored guest with wine, food, and fowls; yet I haven't captured the experience on film or paper. I guess its kind of like smoking -- I know that one day I will regret not capturing these experiences, but I can't bring myself to do anything about it.
I've also been embroiling myself in the local economy. I've got seeds for my small garden, and I hope to do some small-scale farming next year. I'm soon beginning to raise chickens in my backyard, and I've got a pig across town. My neighbor is trying to get me involved in some mining. He's got the miners, but just needs to get his licenses and his exporting connections.
Already the day is half over and I've only got to my second letter. I wanted to get out 13, but I'm not going to make it. Visitors keep poring in. Sometimes I just want to lock my doors. Twenty-one months 'til I make it home. Just as I was warned, sometimes I love it here and sometimes I hate it. Either way, it is a terrific experience. Either way, I'll be glad to see my friends and family again.
The Catholic sisters put up a new radio tower. They can call a phone patch in the States and make collect calls. Don't be too surprised when you get a call from me. I look forward to hearing your voice.
Love, Mark
October 29, 1991
October 14, 1991
Return to Business
Bob --
I'm not sure how the Peace Corps vehicle made it back up this abysmal road. It has deteriorated a lot since I last came up it, alternating between nasty rocks and giant mud holes. Anyway, I'm back home in Kamakwie, and I'm realizing how much I enjoy it here. I had to get out to realize it, but my site is everything I could have ever hoped it could be.
Rob got an okay from Administration to pursue funding for he and I to facilitate construction of 98 pit latrines. We'll be busy. His selling slogan: "We're so full of shit in Kamakwie, we've got to have a place to put it all."
I bought a pig (pregnant) so me and another guy can start a piggery. I'm also working on some farming and mining projects. Now if school starts, it sure could throw a kink into the works! Anyway, I'm busy and learning a lot.
Mark
I'm not sure how the Peace Corps vehicle made it back up this abysmal road. It has deteriorated a lot since I last came up it, alternating between nasty rocks and giant mud holes. Anyway, I'm back home in Kamakwie, and I'm realizing how much I enjoy it here. I had to get out to realize it, but my site is everything I could have ever hoped it could be.
Rob got an okay from Administration to pursue funding for he and I to facilitate construction of 98 pit latrines. We'll be busy. His selling slogan: "We're so full of shit in Kamakwie, we've got to have a place to put it all."
I bought a pig (pregnant) so me and another guy can start a piggery. I'm also working on some farming and mining projects. Now if school starts, it sure could throw a kink into the works! Anyway, I'm busy and learning a lot.
Mark
October 09, 1991
Birthday in Freetown
Bob: I've got three of your letters with me here in Freetown. Two arrived on the mail truck last Wednesday, and I brought all my mail that arrived that day with me as I rode back on the mail truck. One more arrived this past week. One advantage of being here at the hostel is that I can go check for mail any time. I'm here attending a meeting for the Volunteer Representative Council, but I'll comment on that more after I've addressed a few things in your letters.
Your September 8 letter: I'm glad to hear (albeit secondhand) that Carol is thinking about swinging this way on her Africa tour. I hope you are still milling potential plans around in your mind, too.
One frustrating thing about being here (that I sure didn't expect) is that I can't keep up with college football scores. I sure appreciate the highlights that you have sent. Even though KSU never played very good ball while I was there, there was something magical about just being able to go and cheer or boo with all the other people in purple. I really miss it.
I'm glad to hear that Wes changed into Social Work. Ballsy move. I hope he's happy. Tell him I'm proud of him and I'm behind him all the way. I hope that your decision to include him in your close circle of friends has been good for you, too.
Your September 15 letter: Visions of cold weather in Manhattan bring a wistful smile to my face. Good memories. The rains here are supposedly slackening, but this weekend in Freetown has been a wet one. By the end of the month, they should be pretty intermittent. By the end of next month, they will be almost gone.
Thanks for the birthday greetings. Your two letters arrived in Kamakwie on October 2. Your September 22 letter I picked up on my birthday, October 4. I received timely birthday greetings from you, my parents, Dan, and my brother Don. I actually heard from a lot more people this week, but the birthday greetings was not an explicit part of it. Nonetheless, I felt very supported.
I spent my birthday sitting on the beach, swimming in the ocean, and eating beach food. I bought myself a beach shirt, and I accepted sodas and beers from Volunteers who wanted my birthday to be a good one. It was. The day was beautiful, and I thinkI was wise to dedicate my birthday to a day of rest at the beach. Now I'm 23 and living in Africa. Ph.D. by 31? We'll see.
I don't know what to say about your job. As you have noted, by the time my response arrives, the mood swing may be long gone. However, this swing of yours has been recurrent. I think it is a foregone conclusion that you may be happier somewhere else. But then again, maybe not. Only you can decide. Wherever you go, my letters will follow you.
I hope things continue to go well with the dissertation. Keep me posted.
How are Tom and Tandy handling the teams? I really do have complete confidence in them. What new developments are happening with the CSP? KCRI?
I will compose that essay on community service that you wrote about last month. Writing has been coming very easy to me of late. Too bad the journal is collecting dust. Anyway, when I get back to Kamakwie I'll think through it and set aside some time to compose it. I doubt that I'll make it back to Freetown to type it, so I appreciate your offer to do that for me. But keep these letters just in case.
Thanks for your continued encouragement. I have periodic twinges of homesickness (especially when I read and write letters), but I think I am adjusting pretty well to the surroundings. The country is oppressed politically, socially, and economically -- this impacts everything -- but the micro-aspects make the stay here worthwhile. The people are friendly, the palm wine is abundant, and the weather is nice. I have a roof over my head and food for my mouth. I don't have a job yet, but I've been able to fill my time.
I have no idea when the teaching strike will end. Every week, I hear "next Monday," but Monday comes and goes without any attempts in opening the schools. After reading the most recent list of demands in a recent Freetown newspaper, I'm pretty pessimistic about the idea school will start any time soon. Even if this term does get off the ground, one demand is for additional raises (significant ones) in January. This may mean more strikes in January, assuming that the current one ends before then. I've heard from several sources that we may be given options for reassignment (to another country) if the strike lasts into December. My initial reaction is that I would like to stay here rather than go through the whole cultural training and adjustment again, but I don't know how I would react to being jobless for another two months.
I have been able to keep somewhat busy, but I think I've described those activities in previous letters. I have really enjoyed the past weekend I've spend in Freetown. I don't like the city, but seeing other Volunteers has been good. The last three days I've participated in meetings of the Volunteer Representative Council. I represent about eight of us along the Kamakwie road. I like it so much because if was so familiar. A small group of people who make an agenda, work through issues, divide them, work on them for a day, reconvene, report back findings, brainstorm some more, split up again, write, meet the next day with the administration with our agenda, make reports, write up results, send letters, and have a few beers. I felt like I could have done this forever. There was one day that I forgot to eat. My agenda item is called "money matters," and I got to read policy manuals for living allowance increases, draft letters, etc. I was right in the middle of an incredibly efficient committee that interfaces with a helpful and productive administrative staff. The secretary is currently on my butt to finish up my reports for the minutes, but she can just wait.
Anyway, I've got a list of things to buy yet before I head back up-country in a couple days. then I'll dig in and... I don't know. Keep visiting villages, I guess. Look for a project proposal to write. Build a few latrines. Teach during the evenings. Maybe school actually will start before too long.
Well, Bob, that's the news from here. You could do some research for me: what are considered to be (according to some published sources) the top ten (or so) schools in sociology and/or rural sociology? What kinds of interesting things (programs, degree tracks, assistantships) do some of these schools offer that might appeal to me? What other schools have some interesting things? I figure that you know my mind as well as anyone.
Thanks, and I hope all is well.
Now the chairman of the VRC is chewing on me to get my reports done. Good thing this one is coming to a close.
Love, Mark
Your September 8 letter: I'm glad to hear (albeit secondhand) that Carol is thinking about swinging this way on her Africa tour. I hope you are still milling potential plans around in your mind, too.
One frustrating thing about being here (that I sure didn't expect) is that I can't keep up with college football scores. I sure appreciate the highlights that you have sent. Even though KSU never played very good ball while I was there, there was something magical about just being able to go and cheer or boo with all the other people in purple. I really miss it.
I'm glad to hear that Wes changed into Social Work. Ballsy move. I hope he's happy. Tell him I'm proud of him and I'm behind him all the way. I hope that your decision to include him in your close circle of friends has been good for you, too.
Your September 15 letter: Visions of cold weather in Manhattan bring a wistful smile to my face. Good memories. The rains here are supposedly slackening, but this weekend in Freetown has been a wet one. By the end of the month, they should be pretty intermittent. By the end of next month, they will be almost gone.
Thanks for the birthday greetings. Your two letters arrived in Kamakwie on October 2. Your September 22 letter I picked up on my birthday, October 4. I received timely birthday greetings from you, my parents, Dan, and my brother Don. I actually heard from a lot more people this week, but the birthday greetings was not an explicit part of it. Nonetheless, I felt very supported.
I spent my birthday sitting on the beach, swimming in the ocean, and eating beach food. I bought myself a beach shirt, and I accepted sodas and beers from Volunteers who wanted my birthday to be a good one. It was. The day was beautiful, and I thinkI was wise to dedicate my birthday to a day of rest at the beach. Now I'm 23 and living in Africa. Ph.D. by 31? We'll see.
I don't know what to say about your job. As you have noted, by the time my response arrives, the mood swing may be long gone. However, this swing of yours has been recurrent. I think it is a foregone conclusion that you may be happier somewhere else. But then again, maybe not. Only you can decide. Wherever you go, my letters will follow you.
I hope things continue to go well with the dissertation. Keep me posted.
How are Tom and Tandy handling the teams? I really do have complete confidence in them. What new developments are happening with the CSP? KCRI?
I will compose that essay on community service that you wrote about last month. Writing has been coming very easy to me of late. Too bad the journal is collecting dust. Anyway, when I get back to Kamakwie I'll think through it and set aside some time to compose it. I doubt that I'll make it back to Freetown to type it, so I appreciate your offer to do that for me. But keep these letters just in case.
Thanks for your continued encouragement. I have periodic twinges of homesickness (especially when I read and write letters), but I think I am adjusting pretty well to the surroundings. The country is oppressed politically, socially, and economically -- this impacts everything -- but the micro-aspects make the stay here worthwhile. The people are friendly, the palm wine is abundant, and the weather is nice. I have a roof over my head and food for my mouth. I don't have a job yet, but I've been able to fill my time.
I have no idea when the teaching strike will end. Every week, I hear "next Monday," but Monday comes and goes without any attempts in opening the schools. After reading the most recent list of demands in a recent Freetown newspaper, I'm pretty pessimistic about the idea school will start any time soon. Even if this term does get off the ground, one demand is for additional raises (significant ones) in January. This may mean more strikes in January, assuming that the current one ends before then. I've heard from several sources that we may be given options for reassignment (to another country) if the strike lasts into December. My initial reaction is that I would like to stay here rather than go through the whole cultural training and adjustment again, but I don't know how I would react to being jobless for another two months.
I have been able to keep somewhat busy, but I think I've described those activities in previous letters. I have really enjoyed the past weekend I've spend in Freetown. I don't like the city, but seeing other Volunteers has been good. The last three days I've participated in meetings of the Volunteer Representative Council. I represent about eight of us along the Kamakwie road. I like it so much because if was so familiar. A small group of people who make an agenda, work through issues, divide them, work on them for a day, reconvene, report back findings, brainstorm some more, split up again, write, meet the next day with the administration with our agenda, make reports, write up results, send letters, and have a few beers. I felt like I could have done this forever. There was one day that I forgot to eat. My agenda item is called "money matters," and I got to read policy manuals for living allowance increases, draft letters, etc. I was right in the middle of an incredibly efficient committee that interfaces with a helpful and productive administrative staff. The secretary is currently on my butt to finish up my reports for the minutes, but she can just wait.
Anyway, I've got a list of things to buy yet before I head back up-country in a couple days. then I'll dig in and... I don't know. Keep visiting villages, I guess. Look for a project proposal to write. Build a few latrines. Teach during the evenings. Maybe school actually will start before too long.
Well, Bob, that's the news from here. You could do some research for me: what are considered to be (according to some published sources) the top ten (or so) schools in sociology and/or rural sociology? What kinds of interesting things (programs, degree tracks, assistantships) do some of these schools offer that might appeal to me? What other schools have some interesting things? I figure that you know my mind as well as anyone.
Thanks, and I hope all is well.
Now the chairman of the VRC is chewing on me to get my reports done. Good thing this one is coming to a close.
Love, Mark
September 29, 1991
Into the Villages
Bob: On the mail truck last week, I got your letters dated 18 August, 20 August, and 24 August. I only had six letters and a small package from home -- three of the letters were from Sweet Ol' Bob. Thanks for your diligence. I hope you have a sense of how much I appreciate it.
Missing people is tough. Even when I used to be surrounded by the familiar, anyone I missed was just a phone call away. Now, I've only been on the phone one time in the past 12 weeks. Sometimes 2 years seems like a very long time, and sometimes it seems very short. I've already completed nearly 1/8 of my service time! By the time you receive this, that will almost certainly be true. My Close of Service date is in July of 1993. I'm going to try to accomplish all I can in that time.
I heard from Dan in France. His letters are in the format of a small newspaper (complete with advertisements, cartoons, puzzles, etc.) One of the headlines was Bob "Burns" through Maine -- a short report on the hurricane that his family endured. He asked me how you're doing. In another article, he mentioned a friendship that he was developing with a guy a little older than himself. He said that he hoped that the friendship would be like "you and Bob."
Thanks for your contact with Fran Irelan. When this letter goes out on the next mail truck (this Wednesday), it will be accompanied by a letter to her and a letter to the World Wise Schools program in Washington. I hope everything works out okay.
I just took out my camera to take a picture of two boys who wanted to sell me bread off the top of their heads when the camera refused to work. Shit. I don't have my little book with me, but I think the signal I'm getting is for the battery. Shit. If you can come up with a Quick Shooter Zoom 2 battery (lithium DL223A 6 volt), I'd REALLY appreciate it. I don't know what I'll do if a new battery doesn't fix the problem. I'll look around in Freetown next time, too. Damn.
Now I'm looking at your August 24 letter. It seems almost silly to respond at length to something you wrote over a month ago. Most of it is probably obsolete. Thanks for telling me about the CSP team party at Carol's house. Sounds like the usual good time. Really wish I could have been there, but in some respects I'm glad I wasn't. It's hard to explain. I guess I've moved from one job to another where I have more respect and responsibility and control. (Or less, depending on how you look at it.) Anyway, I've accepted that I've left that behind. I miss the people, but I like this hands-on work better. Which brings me to "letter to Carol." Thanks for the warning that she's been expecting a letter from me. I've written a sizeable letter to her that will go out the same time this one does.
This past week, I had a real strong, strange sense that I ought to be preparing for class. It was more than just preparing to teach -- I do that a lot anyway -- it was a sensation that I needed to be at a university. It wasn't the usual "gee, I miss being at school" feeling. Maybe I was just bored and the old "do something" response kicked in while I still had the old "do something for class" mentality. Hope I don't lose it.
Right now, the welcome short break (via the teacher's strike) is turning into a too-long break. Although I'm pretty much able to keep busy, it's not a real productive kind of busy. I'm hearing fairly solid rumors that there is some kind of settlement between the Union and Government and that school will start before too much longer. I've been warned, though, that if I'm expecting the school to make me feel "productive," then I'm in for a big let down. I'd be safest to expect the worst and plan to be really frustrated. We'll see.
I think I've mentioned one Volunteer here named Rob. He's from Michigan, but he really is a good guy. He has gotten heavily involved in a secondary project (his primary project is teaching biology and health science at the school) involving the construction of pit latrines in neighboring villages. He is involving me in his current project in a small village called Kasasie. In Kasasie, ~160 people live in 22 houses. There are only 2 working pit latrines in the village. It was a great experience for me to watch Rob work with the community spirit of these people to hammer out an agreement. We will supply cement, molds, transport, tools, and technical support to their sand, rock, water, and labor to construct 11 new latrines. On our last trip, we mapped the village and sited the latrines, roughly one per two households. The head of each house held a short conference with their co-latrine-head to decide where it should be. Then they agreed to have five feet dug in the holes before they invited us back to inspect them.
I think I've mentioned it before, but community development and self-help are part of the vocabulary and part of the lifestyle of the people. There is, however, a dangerous mentality that the white people will dig them out of their problems when they have nowhere to turn. This is putting a serious damper on the ingenuity of true development. Are we just perpetuating that mentality? Maybe.
The Wesleyan mission called on me to assist them this past Wednesday. They had me drive the Land Rover (same make and model as in The Gods Must be Crazy) to a pretty good sized neighboring village where four hospital workers conducted an immunization clinic. I got to tally polio, tuberculosis, measles, etc. shots for over 80 or so children under 1 year. There is an impressive media campaign in this country to educate mothers on the importance of immunizing their children. There are signs and posters everywhere. I guess in a country that has the highest infant mortality rate in the world, the people would be ready to listen. Anyway, driving the vehicle wasn't so bad, but the roads were NASTY. In some places, I'm not sure why the Land Rover didn't tip over. After sweating profusely, I was glad to get back and head off to the villages where the palm wine is. I'm glad I'm not a missionary -- they can't touch the stuff. I kinda get all the advantages (well, a few anyway) of being a missionary without the disadvantages.
The missionaries here are very friendly. I've been enjoying Sunday nite fellowship with them, which includes electricity and sometimes includes a cold drink. Both doctors play chess, and one of the women gave me a haircut this past week. I'm trying to avoid getting too wrapped up in the people at the mission -- that would certainly compromise the Peace Corps experience -- but they are nice to have around for sanity's sake.
Well, my cat is now toilet trained and sits quietly in my lap. I haven't seen a cockroach in my house for around ten days. I haven't seen Jeanne for as long. I'm meeting lots of people, and they seem to be accepting me fine. My language isn't progressing too quickly, but a lot of people seem to speak pretty good English. The food is good and the rains are cool.
I hope life is good in Manhattan. It's strange to think that school goes on there without me. I look forward to hearing from you in Wednesday's mail bag.
Love, Mark
Missing people is tough. Even when I used to be surrounded by the familiar, anyone I missed was just a phone call away. Now, I've only been on the phone one time in the past 12 weeks. Sometimes 2 years seems like a very long time, and sometimes it seems very short. I've already completed nearly 1/8 of my service time! By the time you receive this, that will almost certainly be true. My Close of Service date is in July of 1993. I'm going to try to accomplish all I can in that time.
I heard from Dan in France. His letters are in the format of a small newspaper (complete with advertisements, cartoons, puzzles, etc.) One of the headlines was Bob "Burns" through Maine -- a short report on the hurricane that his family endured. He asked me how you're doing. In another article, he mentioned a friendship that he was developing with a guy a little older than himself. He said that he hoped that the friendship would be like "you and Bob."
Thanks for your contact with Fran Irelan. When this letter goes out on the next mail truck (this Wednesday), it will be accompanied by a letter to her and a letter to the World Wise Schools program in Washington. I hope everything works out okay.
I just took out my camera to take a picture of two boys who wanted to sell me bread off the top of their heads when the camera refused to work. Shit. I don't have my little book with me, but I think the signal I'm getting is for the battery. Shit. If you can come up with a Quick Shooter Zoom 2 battery (lithium DL223A 6 volt), I'd REALLY appreciate it. I don't know what I'll do if a new battery doesn't fix the problem. I'll look around in Freetown next time, too. Damn.
Now I'm looking at your August 24 letter. It seems almost silly to respond at length to something you wrote over a month ago. Most of it is probably obsolete. Thanks for telling me about the CSP team party at Carol's house. Sounds like the usual good time. Really wish I could have been there, but in some respects I'm glad I wasn't. It's hard to explain. I guess I've moved from one job to another where I have more respect and responsibility and control. (Or less, depending on how you look at it.) Anyway, I've accepted that I've left that behind. I miss the people, but I like this hands-on work better. Which brings me to "letter to Carol." Thanks for the warning that she's been expecting a letter from me. I've written a sizeable letter to her that will go out the same time this one does.
This past week, I had a real strong, strange sense that I ought to be preparing for class. It was more than just preparing to teach -- I do that a lot anyway -- it was a sensation that I needed to be at a university. It wasn't the usual "gee, I miss being at school" feeling. Maybe I was just bored and the old "do something" response kicked in while I still had the old "do something for class" mentality. Hope I don't lose it.
Right now, the welcome short break (via the teacher's strike) is turning into a too-long break. Although I'm pretty much able to keep busy, it's not a real productive kind of busy. I'm hearing fairly solid rumors that there is some kind of settlement between the Union and Government and that school will start before too much longer. I've been warned, though, that if I'm expecting the school to make me feel "productive," then I'm in for a big let down. I'd be safest to expect the worst and plan to be really frustrated. We'll see.
I think I've mentioned one Volunteer here named Rob. He's from Michigan, but he really is a good guy. He has gotten heavily involved in a secondary project (his primary project is teaching biology and health science at the school) involving the construction of pit latrines in neighboring villages. He is involving me in his current project in a small village called Kasasie. In Kasasie, ~160 people live in 22 houses. There are only 2 working pit latrines in the village. It was a great experience for me to watch Rob work with the community spirit of these people to hammer out an agreement. We will supply cement, molds, transport, tools, and technical support to their sand, rock, water, and labor to construct 11 new latrines. On our last trip, we mapped the village and sited the latrines, roughly one per two households. The head of each house held a short conference with their co-latrine-head to decide where it should be. Then they agreed to have five feet dug in the holes before they invited us back to inspect them.
I think I've mentioned it before, but community development and self-help are part of the vocabulary and part of the lifestyle of the people. There is, however, a dangerous mentality that the white people will dig them out of their problems when they have nowhere to turn. This is putting a serious damper on the ingenuity of true development. Are we just perpetuating that mentality? Maybe.
The Wesleyan mission called on me to assist them this past Wednesday. They had me drive the Land Rover (same make and model as in The Gods Must be Crazy) to a pretty good sized neighboring village where four hospital workers conducted an immunization clinic. I got to tally polio, tuberculosis, measles, etc. shots for over 80 or so children under 1 year. There is an impressive media campaign in this country to educate mothers on the importance of immunizing their children. There are signs and posters everywhere. I guess in a country that has the highest infant mortality rate in the world, the people would be ready to listen. Anyway, driving the vehicle wasn't so bad, but the roads were NASTY. In some places, I'm not sure why the Land Rover didn't tip over. After sweating profusely, I was glad to get back and head off to the villages where the palm wine is. I'm glad I'm not a missionary -- they can't touch the stuff. I kinda get all the advantages (well, a few anyway) of being a missionary without the disadvantages.
The missionaries here are very friendly. I've been enjoying Sunday nite fellowship with them, which includes electricity and sometimes includes a cold drink. Both doctors play chess, and one of the women gave me a haircut this past week. I'm trying to avoid getting too wrapped up in the people at the mission -- that would certainly compromise the Peace Corps experience -- but they are nice to have around for sanity's sake.
Well, my cat is now toilet trained and sits quietly in my lap. I haven't seen a cockroach in my house for around ten days. I haven't seen Jeanne for as long. I'm meeting lots of people, and they seem to be accepting me fine. My language isn't progressing too quickly, but a lot of people seem to speak pretty good English. The food is good and the rains are cool.
I hope life is good in Manhattan. It's strange to think that school goes on there without me. I look forward to hearing from you in Wednesday's mail bag.
Love, Mark
September 18, 1991
A Request from Bob
Department of Regional and Community Planning
College of Architecture and Design
302 Seaton Hall
Manhattan, Kansas 66506-2910
MEMORANDUM
TO: Eric Becker, Wesley Ray, Mark Hager and Mark Horrigan
FROM: Bob Burns
RE: Essays on "community service"
Some time ago I asked each of you to write a reflective essay on "community service" to be placed in the collection of assigned readings for the spring 1992 Community Service Program Seminar at Kansas State University. I greatly appreciate your willingness to do so, and believe that class members will gain from the insights you share with them.
As you know, the CSP seminar comprises weekly sessions to help student teams prepare for their two-month summer projects in Kansas communities. These sessions focus on such topics as the concepts of "community"; community development; team-building; conflict management; and survey preparation, administration and evaluation. Readings shall be assigned for each topic. Your essays shall be assigned for the "wrap-up" session, traditionally presented by the CSP founder, Dr. Marvin Kaiser, Associate Dean of the KSU College of Arts and Sciences and Director of the Kansas Center for Rural Initiatives.
The intent is for your essays to be personal observations and musings on community service and civic responsibility. The "slant" you decide to take and the essay length (five to ten pages?) are up to you. I would be happy to discuss ideas.
Thank you for your willingness to undertake this task. We appreciate very much your contribution to the education of our students.
cc: Carol Peak, Director, Community Service Program
College of Architecture and Design
302 Seaton Hall
Manhattan, Kansas 66506-2910
MEMORANDUM
TO: Eric Becker, Wesley Ray, Mark Hager and Mark Horrigan
FROM: Bob Burns
RE: Essays on "community service"
Some time ago I asked each of you to write a reflective essay on "community service" to be placed in the collection of assigned readings for the spring 1992 Community Service Program Seminar at Kansas State University. I greatly appreciate your willingness to do so, and believe that class members will gain from the insights you share with them.
As you know, the CSP seminar comprises weekly sessions to help student teams prepare for their two-month summer projects in Kansas communities. These sessions focus on such topics as the concepts of "community"; community development; team-building; conflict management; and survey preparation, administration and evaluation. Readings shall be assigned for each topic. Your essays shall be assigned for the "wrap-up" session, traditionally presented by the CSP founder, Dr. Marvin Kaiser, Associate Dean of the KSU College of Arts and Sciences and Director of the Kansas Center for Rural Initiatives.
The intent is for your essays to be personal observations and musings on community service and civic responsibility. The "slant" you decide to take and the essay length (five to ten pages?) are up to you. I would be happy to discuss ideas.
Thank you for your willingness to undertake this task. We appreciate very much your contribution to the education of our students.
cc: Carol Peak, Director, Community Service Program
September 17, 1991
Abu's Note
Mr. Mark
Sorry I didn't say this earlier to you. It is because I forget too much and also I was having too much works to do this week. Please Mr. Mark I want you to help me for money to buy cloth and take it to the tailor to make a school trousers. Also, I will like to sell to you one of my buckets. I want to use that money on the way. For the uniform trousers roughly Le2000. For the bucket Le 600. We talk more tomorrow. I will be here around 6:30 to 7:00.
Abu B
Sorry I didn't say this earlier to you. It is because I forget too much and also I was having too much works to do this week. Please Mr. Mark I want you to help me for money to buy cloth and take it to the tailor to make a school trousers. Also, I will like to sell to you one of my buckets. I want to use that money on the way. For the uniform trousers roughly Le2000. For the bucket Le 600. We talk more tomorrow. I will be here around 6:30 to 7:00.
Abu B
James' Note
Mr. Bob,
It is my of introduce myself to you as a friend of mine. Because Mr. Mark your friend told me about you well. However, I am also want to be a friend of mine like Mr. Mark.
Your friend,
James B. Turay
It is my of introduce myself to you as a friend of mine. Because Mr. Mark your friend told me about you well. However, I am also want to be a friend of mine like Mr. Mark.
Your friend,
James B. Turay
Settling In
Bob --
I'm trying to finish up letters to send with the mail truck scheduled to arrive tomorrow. I had one of my frequent visitors, James, write a few lines that I'll include with this letter. James is probably around 17 or so, and will be starting Form 2 (there are 5 Forms in secondary school) this year. He left his family and village last year to come to the school here. His family sees no value in education, but he was the top student in Form 1 last year. He wants to work for me, but I'll probably end up helping with his school fees either way.
I left yesterday evening to attend a dinner that a missionary family held for we five Peace Corps Volunteers and Tammy's visiting cousin. Rob and Tammy have been here one year. Jeanne and I are settling in. Anyway, we had a meal of cow, corn, beans, cucumber salad, and chocolate cake. Strange meal for Kamakwie. Afterwards, we watched the Jungle Book on VCR. REALLY strange for Kamakwie. It was like being in an American household. It's nice to know, though, that it's there if I ever really need it.
I came home last night to a note that I'll include with this mailing. It is from Abu, my worker who has been an incredible help and I trust implicitly. He has worked the past year for Tammy (and for two other Peace Corps Volunteers before her) so Tammy wanted to include him in a week's vacation to Kabala. He left this morning, and wanted to take care of business with me. Well, in the darkness my tired eyes misread the note. Among other things, I thought he wanted me to buy a bucket for him for 6,600 Leones. I was confused and angry and couldn't get to sleep. Well, I read the letter again this morning with clearer eyes and better interpretation. All he was asking for was money for uniform trousers (which I feel responsible for because I pay his school fees) and 600 Leones (the first "six" is a "Le" which is like our $ sign) for a bucket he wants to sell to me. I felt a lot better. I sent 2000 with him and I'll send up 750 more (for the bucket) with Tammy who will meet him tomorrow.
The other side of this page is song lyrics I wrote down while in training. It was part of my scrap paper/letter writing pile. Hope you enjoy it. The last card you gave me in America with the Gaelic blessing inside hangs on my den door, along with a "K-State!" sticker, a Peace Corps bumper sticker, and a "Mr. Hager" sign. It's slowly starting to feel more like a home.
School still hasn't started yet. There was supposed to be a union - government meeting yesterday, so maybe I'll hear something soon. If things don't start soon (and probably even if they do), I'll join Rob in his latrine-building projects out in the villages. Villages are cool, but communication is difficult. I spent one 24-hour period either blasted or hung over on palm wine last week. I'm trying to get my body acclimated to stuff so I can be accepted in normal social circles. It doesn't taste too bad, and you have to get used to straining insects through your teeth, buts it's STRONG stuff.
I'm enclosing some pictures. More later. Share these at KCRI.
Love, Mark
Spirit
by The Waterboys
Man gets tired
Spirit don't
Man surrenders
Spirit won't
Man crawls
Spirit flies
Spirit lives when man dies
Man seems
Spirit is
Man dreams
The spirit lives
Man is tethered
Spirit free
What spirit is man can be
What spirit is man can be
What spirit is man can be
What spirit is
The man can be
I'm trying to finish up letters to send with the mail truck scheduled to arrive tomorrow. I had one of my frequent visitors, James, write a few lines that I'll include with this letter. James is probably around 17 or so, and will be starting Form 2 (there are 5 Forms in secondary school) this year. He left his family and village last year to come to the school here. His family sees no value in education, but he was the top student in Form 1 last year. He wants to work for me, but I'll probably end up helping with his school fees either way.
I left yesterday evening to attend a dinner that a missionary family held for we five Peace Corps Volunteers and Tammy's visiting cousin. Rob and Tammy have been here one year. Jeanne and I are settling in. Anyway, we had a meal of cow, corn, beans, cucumber salad, and chocolate cake. Strange meal for Kamakwie. Afterwards, we watched the Jungle Book on VCR. REALLY strange for Kamakwie. It was like being in an American household. It's nice to know, though, that it's there if I ever really need it.
I came home last night to a note that I'll include with this mailing. It is from Abu, my worker who has been an incredible help and I trust implicitly. He has worked the past year for Tammy (and for two other Peace Corps Volunteers before her) so Tammy wanted to include him in a week's vacation to Kabala. He left this morning, and wanted to take care of business with me. Well, in the darkness my tired eyes misread the note. Among other things, I thought he wanted me to buy a bucket for him for 6,600 Leones. I was confused and angry and couldn't get to sleep. Well, I read the letter again this morning with clearer eyes and better interpretation. All he was asking for was money for uniform trousers (which I feel responsible for because I pay his school fees) and 600 Leones (the first "six" is a "Le" which is like our $ sign) for a bucket he wants to sell to me. I felt a lot better. I sent 2000 with him and I'll send up 750 more (for the bucket) with Tammy who will meet him tomorrow.
The other side of this page is song lyrics I wrote down while in training. It was part of my scrap paper/letter writing pile. Hope you enjoy it. The last card you gave me in America with the Gaelic blessing inside hangs on my den door, along with a "K-State!" sticker, a Peace Corps bumper sticker, and a "Mr. Hager" sign. It's slowly starting to feel more like a home.
School still hasn't started yet. There was supposed to be a union - government meeting yesterday, so maybe I'll hear something soon. If things don't start soon (and probably even if they do), I'll join Rob in his latrine-building projects out in the villages. Villages are cool, but communication is difficult. I spent one 24-hour period either blasted or hung over on palm wine last week. I'm trying to get my body acclimated to stuff so I can be accepted in normal social circles. It doesn't taste too bad, and you have to get used to straining insects through your teeth, buts it's STRONG stuff.
I'm enclosing some pictures. More later. Share these at KCRI.
Love, Mark
Spirit
by The Waterboys
Man gets tired
Spirit don't
Man surrenders
Spirit won't
Man crawls
Spirit flies
Spirit lives when man dies
Man seems
Spirit is
Man dreams
The spirit lives
Man is tethered
Spirit free
What spirit is man can be
What spirit is man can be
What spirit is man can be
What spirit is
The man can be
September 09, 1991
Volunteer Glory
Bob --
Well, I'm a Volunteer now.
I enjoyed the four days spent in Freetown, although this city, probably like most third world cities (or most cities if you're me), is a little unsettling. Over a million people, and no power of its own. There are quite a few generators for independent homes and businesses, however. We stayed in a pretty nice hotel -- it had running cold water and electricity about half the hours of the day. There are some really nice restaurants and beach bars, and I think I found most of them. One bakery looks and feels like its straight out of New York City (or so how one man from Connecticut described it). The patrons of this bakery were 90% white at any given time, a comment on the affluence of the enviroment. On the beach, I ate a pizza at another ex-patriot hangout called The Venue. The beaches are really nice, but a lot of beach vendors bug white people incessantly. I've heard several times now that "An American is a rich white person who ought to buy anything he/she wants." I saw people look really puzzled when I said I didn't want to buy something. Their only explanation is that I must be trying to get a better price, so they keep on with the sales tactics. A quiet time on the beach, unless you can get away to a more seculed area, is unheard of.
The swearing-in ceremony was like any graduation you've seen before, absent family. I had the honor of delivering the "Vote of Thanks" on behalf of my graduating class. Whether by skill, education, or blind luck, the speech meshed perfectly with the rhetorical situation. It was easily the best-received speech I've ever given. The first half of the speech was given in Krio (and by all reports, pretty damn good Krio I might add) so the class looked pretty good in the eyes of the ministers/diplomats and other host nationals in attendance. The trainers all beamed like proud parents. All my colleagues fell over themselves to come up with praise for the speech, with the notable exception of my nemesis and Kamakwie counterpart Jeanne, who continues to be a thorn in my side. Anyway, it was a really positive experience. Normally, rites of passage seem really superficial to me, but the transition from Trainee to VOLUNTEER is built up to be a big deal here. It was.
I was nervous those last couple of days before arriving here in Kamakwie. Getting here and moving in was mostly a positive and reinforcing experience. I feel like I am moving up and down a wide continuum ranging from elation to total depression. Last night, I hunted down six giant cockroaches in my bedroom before I finally got brave enough to go to bed. I don't have a pillow yet. The Muslims started praying at 5:30 AM. I didn't mind too much -- I hadn't slept very well anyway. I had a really hard time crawling out of bed this morning. I couldn't conceive of crawling out of this bed every day for the next 22 months. I got up, lit some candles, opened some windows. The unsmashed cockroach I saw this morning was a dead one -- probably killed by the powder and spray I put out last night.
I've been writing since I got up, and I'm already feeling better. Abu showed up to cook some corn pap. He said that cockroaches are a new acquisition for this house (it has been empty for awhile) and that once we start cooking again, the smoke should chase out the bats and cockroaches. I hope so. I'm looking for poison today anyway.
School is supposed to start tomorrow, which means I have my first staff meeting then. I'm not sure what the status of agreements is between the Teacher's Union and the government. Some teachers will teach. Some will hold out. I'll be trying to find my place in it all. I'm anxious to get my house in order and start teaching. Keeping myself busy in an ordered environment will be very important.
The mail truck will come every two weeks. I guess I will start several letters to different people and then supplement them until I have to surrender them to the mailman. It will be strange having a bunch of unfinished letters lying around. I've been thinking very seriously about getting my journal out. I think I'm on the verge of producing some serious philosophy. Only one way to find out.
Until next time...
Mark
Well, I'm a Volunteer now.
I enjoyed the four days spent in Freetown, although this city, probably like most third world cities (or most cities if you're me), is a little unsettling. Over a million people, and no power of its own. There are quite a few generators for independent homes and businesses, however. We stayed in a pretty nice hotel -- it had running cold water and electricity about half the hours of the day. There are some really nice restaurants and beach bars, and I think I found most of them. One bakery looks and feels like its straight out of New York City (or so how one man from Connecticut described it). The patrons of this bakery were 90% white at any given time, a comment on the affluence of the enviroment. On the beach, I ate a pizza at another ex-patriot hangout called The Venue. The beaches are really nice, but a lot of beach vendors bug white people incessantly. I've heard several times now that "An American is a rich white person who ought to buy anything he/she wants." I saw people look really puzzled when I said I didn't want to buy something. Their only explanation is that I must be trying to get a better price, so they keep on with the sales tactics. A quiet time on the beach, unless you can get away to a more seculed area, is unheard of.
The swearing-in ceremony was like any graduation you've seen before, absent family. I had the honor of delivering the "Vote of Thanks" on behalf of my graduating class. Whether by skill, education, or blind luck, the speech meshed perfectly with the rhetorical situation. It was easily the best-received speech I've ever given. The first half of the speech was given in Krio (and by all reports, pretty damn good Krio I might add) so the class looked pretty good in the eyes of the ministers/diplomats and other host nationals in attendance. The trainers all beamed like proud parents. All my colleagues fell over themselves to come up with praise for the speech, with the notable exception of my nemesis and Kamakwie counterpart Jeanne, who continues to be a thorn in my side. Anyway, it was a really positive experience. Normally, rites of passage seem really superficial to me, but the transition from Trainee to VOLUNTEER is built up to be a big deal here. It was.
I was nervous those last couple of days before arriving here in Kamakwie. Getting here and moving in was mostly a positive and reinforcing experience. I feel like I am moving up and down a wide continuum ranging from elation to total depression. Last night, I hunted down six giant cockroaches in my bedroom before I finally got brave enough to go to bed. I don't have a pillow yet. The Muslims started praying at 5:30 AM. I didn't mind too much -- I hadn't slept very well anyway. I had a really hard time crawling out of bed this morning. I couldn't conceive of crawling out of this bed every day for the next 22 months. I got up, lit some candles, opened some windows. The unsmashed cockroach I saw this morning was a dead one -- probably killed by the powder and spray I put out last night.
I've been writing since I got up, and I'm already feeling better. Abu showed up to cook some corn pap. He said that cockroaches are a new acquisition for this house (it has been empty for awhile) and that once we start cooking again, the smoke should chase out the bats and cockroaches. I hope so. I'm looking for poison today anyway.
School is supposed to start tomorrow, which means I have my first staff meeting then. I'm not sure what the status of agreements is between the Teacher's Union and the government. Some teachers will teach. Some will hold out. I'll be trying to find my place in it all. I'm anxious to get my house in order and start teaching. Keeping myself busy in an ordered environment will be very important.
The mail truck will come every two weeks. I guess I will start several letters to different people and then supplement them until I have to surrender them to the mailman. It will be strange having a bunch of unfinished letters lying around. I've been thinking very seriously about getting my journal out. I think I'm on the verge of producing some serious philosophy. Only one way to find out.
Until next time...
Mark
August 28, 1991
Support for Bob
Bob --
I got three of your letters on your birthday last night. I'd been trying all day to sit down and write a few lines, and then the barrage of mail came. I got letter #3 late last week, and #2, 4, and 5 yesterday.
I'll try to answer some of your comments first, then I'll ramble on for awhile...
Rail study appears to be meeting with a variety of successes and failures. What is the time table looking like on that thing? What kinds of things are you finding out? Tom Daniels' late resignation may favor your chances for tenure-track opening, but how do you feel about it? You can't put your money on the Urban Institute, but does your love-hate relationship with KSU continue? I get a really strange feeling whenever you talk about leaving. It's like "Wow, Bob is leaving." I know that seems REALLY irrational -- maybe I haven't adjusted to the reality of being gone myself. Classes probably began today. It's a strange feeling not being there.
As I mentioned in an earlier letter, I would very much like to see you next summer. Canary Islands is a good idea -- I talked to one Volunteer who did it last summer. Another (probably less expensive) idea is vacation in Sierra Leone. Let's keep talking about it.
As I may have mentioned earlier, you may opt to use the international mail address. It's probably faster, and I haven't heard of too many problems. Thanks for the stamps, I think. When I opened your latest letter, out popped my very own Desert Shield/Storm sticker set. So now I, too, can honor those who served.
I hope the Kansas City team is able to look back favorably on the summer's events. It certainly sounds like they had some adventures. How would you rate their success? How does their success compare to last year?
I'm glad to hear of all the progress on the dissertation. I hope your latest trip to Michigan was a good one. I'm sure your committee / major professor was pleased to hear of Mr. Chang's logistic regression correlation between survey results and (lagging?) economic indicators. Then again, I'm sure you were pleased when you found out about it yourself. It won't be long now. Certainly, the great majority of the work is complete.
If you've held true to your goals, you have joined the ranks of the non-smoking. Congratulations. I'm proud of you. Swimming, good eating, and church are all worthy, too, but too much virtue at once can be a real shock to the system. Be careful that you don't overdose on health.
Well, I hope you spent your birthday well, and I hope classes are progressing well. Life here, too, goes on. In six days, we go to Freetown for the final phase of the training. I'm looking forward to eating a cheeseburger. In less than a week, I will officially become a Peace Corps Volunteer. That's a big deal. There is a lot of responsibility that comes with the letters PCV, more than I ever thought. It's not so much a matter of liberty, duty, or freedom -- those are parcel to nationalist rhetoric -- as it is a matter of Responsibility to the well-being of Others in the world. As you and I have discussed before, I believe that we have a Responsibility to use the advantages and talents that we have to serve others. It's the big "R".
Anyway, I'll be pretty glad to be done with training. It's been pretty intense. This week and last, we've been doing our practical training at Makeni. The afternoons this week have been reserved for instruction in indigenous languages. Me and another guy have been studying Limba. This stuff makes French look real damn easy. I figure if I can pick up a little Limba in Kamakwie, fine. I just want to "get through" the technical instruction.
Well, it's 1:54 and I've got 4 hours of Limba beginning at 2:00. Ugh. I'll sign off for now. It's 8:54 AM there at home.
One request: If you've completed Skinny Legs and All or don't reasonably think you ever will, can you send it to me? No big hurry. Book swapping is popular among Volunteers, and I think this would be a good one for some of the folk here.
Keep after it, Bob. Your little brother in Africa thinks of you a lot.
Love, Mark
National Anthem:
High we exalt thee,
Realm of the free --
Great is the love we have for thee.
Firmly united, ever we stand,
Singing the praise O native land.
We raise up our hearts and our voices on high --
The hills and the valleys re-echo our cry.
Blessing and peace be ever thine own,
Land that we love our Sierra Leone
I got three of your letters on your birthday last night. I'd been trying all day to sit down and write a few lines, and then the barrage of mail came. I got letter #3 late last week, and #2, 4, and 5 yesterday.
I'll try to answer some of your comments first, then I'll ramble on for awhile...
Rail study appears to be meeting with a variety of successes and failures. What is the time table looking like on that thing? What kinds of things are you finding out? Tom Daniels' late resignation may favor your chances for tenure-track opening, but how do you feel about it? You can't put your money on the Urban Institute, but does your love-hate relationship with KSU continue? I get a really strange feeling whenever you talk about leaving. It's like "Wow, Bob is leaving." I know that seems REALLY irrational -- maybe I haven't adjusted to the reality of being gone myself. Classes probably began today. It's a strange feeling not being there.
As I mentioned in an earlier letter, I would very much like to see you next summer. Canary Islands is a good idea -- I talked to one Volunteer who did it last summer. Another (probably less expensive) idea is vacation in Sierra Leone. Let's keep talking about it.
As I may have mentioned earlier, you may opt to use the international mail address. It's probably faster, and I haven't heard of too many problems. Thanks for the stamps, I think. When I opened your latest letter, out popped my very own Desert Shield/Storm sticker set. So now I, too, can honor those who served.
I hope the Kansas City team is able to look back favorably on the summer's events. It certainly sounds like they had some adventures. How would you rate their success? How does their success compare to last year?
I'm glad to hear of all the progress on the dissertation. I hope your latest trip to Michigan was a good one. I'm sure your committee / major professor was pleased to hear of Mr. Chang's logistic regression correlation between survey results and (lagging?) economic indicators. Then again, I'm sure you were pleased when you found out about it yourself. It won't be long now. Certainly, the great majority of the work is complete.
If you've held true to your goals, you have joined the ranks of the non-smoking. Congratulations. I'm proud of you. Swimming, good eating, and church are all worthy, too, but too much virtue at once can be a real shock to the system. Be careful that you don't overdose on health.
Well, I hope you spent your birthday well, and I hope classes are progressing well. Life here, too, goes on. In six days, we go to Freetown for the final phase of the training. I'm looking forward to eating a cheeseburger. In less than a week, I will officially become a Peace Corps Volunteer. That's a big deal. There is a lot of responsibility that comes with the letters PCV, more than I ever thought. It's not so much a matter of liberty, duty, or freedom -- those are parcel to nationalist rhetoric -- as it is a matter of Responsibility to the well-being of Others in the world. As you and I have discussed before, I believe that we have a Responsibility to use the advantages and talents that we have to serve others. It's the big "R".
Anyway, I'll be pretty glad to be done with training. It's been pretty intense. This week and last, we've been doing our practical training at Makeni. The afternoons this week have been reserved for instruction in indigenous languages. Me and another guy have been studying Limba. This stuff makes French look real damn easy. I figure if I can pick up a little Limba in Kamakwie, fine. I just want to "get through" the technical instruction.
Well, it's 1:54 and I've got 4 hours of Limba beginning at 2:00. Ugh. I'll sign off for now. It's 8:54 AM there at home.
One request: If you've completed Skinny Legs and All or don't reasonably think you ever will, can you send it to me? No big hurry. Book swapping is popular among Volunteers, and I think this would be a good one for some of the folk here.
Keep after it, Bob. Your little brother in Africa thinks of you a lot.
Love, Mark
National Anthem:
High we exalt thee,
Realm of the free --
Great is the love we have for thee.
Firmly united, ever we stand,
Singing the praise O native land.
We raise up our hearts and our voices on high --
The hills and the valleys re-echo our cry.
Blessing and peace be ever thine own,
Land that we love our Sierra Leone
August 19, 1991
First Trip to Kamakwie
Bob:
Our practicums begin today and will last throughout the next two weeks. Actually, today we just spent the morning watching our coordinators present lectures. They've somehow bribed students to be here to listen to the lectures.
I sent a pretty long narrative to my parents describing the site visit experience. I wish I could photocopy some things to send. Anyway, the trip there was quite an interesting experience. We showed up at the lorry park on Wednesday morning at about 8:40. We were some of the first Kamakwie road travelers, and the transport won't leave until it is full. Shortly after 11:00 AM, this truck about the size of a VW bus had ~23 people, 12 bags of flour, and 5 bags of rice. Breathing was usually possible, but movement was a precious commodity. During the journey on (literally) one of the worst roads in the world, we were searched by the military, ran out of gas, blew a radiator hose, walked up a treacherous hill, and arrived in a rainstorm in the dark. The 55 mile trip took a little over 8 hours.
But getting to Kamakwie seems to be the worst part -- the city seems to be a cool place. The principal (who nobody seems to like) gave me a warm reception and treated me very well. I had an American meal at the mission compound and a tour of the hospital. I drank palm wine and talked about politics with a bunch of guys. I listened to Aretha Franklin and drank whisky shots (ugh) with the principal. I got to see my empty and desolate house, but I stayed in the house of a vacationing Volunteer -- Rob. I hired my houseboy -- Abu. Jeanne (she and I seem to be developing a genuine dislike for each other) travelled back yesterday with another Volunteer who has a vehicle at the national park -- Pam. That only took 4 hours, the "normal" amount of time in good conditions.
I hope it doesn't take too long to adjust, because I can get really depressed sometimes. I don't foresee any real problems, but I am following a legacy of heroic Volunteers in Kamakwie. I'll have my hands full just trying to find my place and meet expectations. Anyway, I'm sure I'm equal to the task.
Haven't heard from you for a couple weeks. The mail system is a real thorn in the side. Anyway, more next week.
Love, Mark
Our practicums begin today and will last throughout the next two weeks. Actually, today we just spent the morning watching our coordinators present lectures. They've somehow bribed students to be here to listen to the lectures.
I sent a pretty long narrative to my parents describing the site visit experience. I wish I could photocopy some things to send. Anyway, the trip there was quite an interesting experience. We showed up at the lorry park on Wednesday morning at about 8:40. We were some of the first Kamakwie road travelers, and the transport won't leave until it is full. Shortly after 11:00 AM, this truck about the size of a VW bus had ~23 people, 12 bags of flour, and 5 bags of rice. Breathing was usually possible, but movement was a precious commodity. During the journey on (literally) one of the worst roads in the world, we were searched by the military, ran out of gas, blew a radiator hose, walked up a treacherous hill, and arrived in a rainstorm in the dark. The 55 mile trip took a little over 8 hours.
But getting to Kamakwie seems to be the worst part -- the city seems to be a cool place. The principal (who nobody seems to like) gave me a warm reception and treated me very well. I had an American meal at the mission compound and a tour of the hospital. I drank palm wine and talked about politics with a bunch of guys. I listened to Aretha Franklin and drank whisky shots (ugh) with the principal. I got to see my empty and desolate house, but I stayed in the house of a vacationing Volunteer -- Rob. I hired my houseboy -- Abu. Jeanne (she and I seem to be developing a genuine dislike for each other) travelled back yesterday with another Volunteer who has a vehicle at the national park -- Pam. That only took 4 hours, the "normal" amount of time in good conditions.
I hope it doesn't take too long to adjust, because I can get really depressed sometimes. I don't foresee any real problems, but I am following a legacy of heroic Volunteers in Kamakwie. I'll have my hands full just trying to find my place and meet expectations. Anyway, I'm sure I'm equal to the task.
Haven't heard from you for a couple weeks. The mail system is a real thorn in the side. Anyway, more next week.
Love, Mark
August 11, 1991
Connections to Home
Bob!
A (probably) belated HAPPY BIRTHDAY to you. I would've sent you a card, but there aren't any. I hope you can discern my glowing sentiments through the recycled paper.
I failed to write last Sunday. I hope such lapses do not happen too often. Illness (my temperature reached 103.6 degrees) depleted any desire I had to sit down and write down reflections on my situation. Also, I will plead busy-ness, as we have just completed our most packed week -- the last before our site visits on Wednesday. After we return next Sunday, we will have a week of educational practicals. Then wrap-ups, swear-ins, a few days on the beach, and then I'm Kamakwie bound. I'm looking forward to visiting in a couple days, but I doubt that it will feel like home on that first, brief trip. I'll let you know.
I got your first letter about ten (or so) days ago. Getting letters is quite a status symbol around here. One guy got a package from home last week, and we are still worshipping small icons of him. The most popular item in the box was the newspaper his mother used to pack the items in. Using the D.C. address is "safest," but it takes a long time. I haven't heard of anybody having any problems with the international air mail address, though, and it might be much faster. That is, c/o Private Mail Bag, Peace Corps, Freetown, Sierra Leone. Might give it a try. Send stamps.
I guess I'm settling in okay, although I occasionally wonder what in the world I'm doing here. There is an American professor who teaches here -- he came here as a Peace Corps Volunteer ~17 years ago -- who gave us a number of VERY INTERESTING lectures this past week. His name is Joe Opala, and I guess he is pretty well known, in the right academic circles. He has done a lot of research on the historical connections between Sierra Leone and the US. A number of slaves were brought to South Carolina and Georgia from here, and Freetown was founded by re-patriated American slaves. The interesting thing about that first connection is that Sierra Leone salves who were brought from this rice growing area to the rice growing climate along the souteastern seaboard also brought malaria and yellow fever with them. As a result, they were able to live relatively free of white control and preserve their culture for many generations. They came to be known as the Gullahs. Pressure from the Army pushed some of them down with the Seminoles in central Florida. The Trail of Tears relocated many black Seminoles into Oklahoma, and some eventually ended up in Texas and Mexico. Consequently, there are residuals of culture and pockets of language which are very similar to the language I hear here now. PBS produced a special (last year, I think) called "Family Across the Sea" which chronicles the research done on this connection. If you could find a copy of it, you could at least get a good look at the people and places I'm coming to be a part of.
I have no doubt that your summer is more hot and humid than mine. The bad part is that there is no escape when the heat does come. All we can do is hope for cool rain, which comes frequently. Many Volunteers have friends who come to visit, and many of them make trips home. Both are expensive. Anyway, I want you to know that you would be perfectly welcome to spend a month in my home in Kamakwie next summer. A few injections and a couple thousand bucks would buy quite an interesting vacation.
I will mail a brief letter to KCRI today also. Looking forward to your next letter.
Love, Mark
P.S. My journal remains blank, and I already feel guilty enough about it! Hang on to these letters.
A (probably) belated HAPPY BIRTHDAY to you. I would've sent you a card, but there aren't any. I hope you can discern my glowing sentiments through the recycled paper.
I failed to write last Sunday. I hope such lapses do not happen too often. Illness (my temperature reached 103.6 degrees) depleted any desire I had to sit down and write down reflections on my situation. Also, I will plead busy-ness, as we have just completed our most packed week -- the last before our site visits on Wednesday. After we return next Sunday, we will have a week of educational practicals. Then wrap-ups, swear-ins, a few days on the beach, and then I'm Kamakwie bound. I'm looking forward to visiting in a couple days, but I doubt that it will feel like home on that first, brief trip. I'll let you know.
I got your first letter about ten (or so) days ago. Getting letters is quite a status symbol around here. One guy got a package from home last week, and we are still worshipping small icons of him. The most popular item in the box was the newspaper his mother used to pack the items in. Using the D.C. address is "safest," but it takes a long time. I haven't heard of anybody having any problems with the international air mail address, though, and it might be much faster. That is, c/o Private Mail Bag, Peace Corps, Freetown, Sierra Leone. Might give it a try. Send stamps.
I guess I'm settling in okay, although I occasionally wonder what in the world I'm doing here. There is an American professor who teaches here -- he came here as a Peace Corps Volunteer ~17 years ago -- who gave us a number of VERY INTERESTING lectures this past week. His name is Joe Opala, and I guess he is pretty well known, in the right academic circles. He has done a lot of research on the historical connections between Sierra Leone and the US. A number of slaves were brought to South Carolina and Georgia from here, and Freetown was founded by re-patriated American slaves. The interesting thing about that first connection is that Sierra Leone salves who were brought from this rice growing area to the rice growing climate along the souteastern seaboard also brought malaria and yellow fever with them. As a result, they were able to live relatively free of white control and preserve their culture for many generations. They came to be known as the Gullahs. Pressure from the Army pushed some of them down with the Seminoles in central Florida. The Trail of Tears relocated many black Seminoles into Oklahoma, and some eventually ended up in Texas and Mexico. Consequently, there are residuals of culture and pockets of language which are very similar to the language I hear here now. PBS produced a special (last year, I think) called "Family Across the Sea" which chronicles the research done on this connection. If you could find a copy of it, you could at least get a good look at the people and places I'm coming to be a part of.
I have no doubt that your summer is more hot and humid than mine. The bad part is that there is no escape when the heat does come. All we can do is hope for cool rain, which comes frequently. Many Volunteers have friends who come to visit, and many of them make trips home. Both are expensive. Anyway, I want you to know that you would be perfectly welcome to spend a month in my home in Kamakwie next summer. A few injections and a couple thousand bucks would buy quite an interesting vacation.
I will mail a brief letter to KCRI today also. Looking forward to your next letter.
Love, Mark
P.S. My journal remains blank, and I already feel guilty enough about it! Hang on to these letters.
July 30, 1991
Village Visit to Mayagba
Bob: I missed writing you on Sunday because I was holed up in a Little African village. My village visit took me to Mayagba, a typical (I guess) slice of central Sierra Leone. I learned a bunch -- I'll try to put as much as I can in as few words as possible. Families are extended and villages are communal. Its a community developers dream. they farm cooperatively. If you don't contribute to the community, you get punished. Their every-day lingo (when it's in English) includes "community" and "self-help" and stuff like that. Me and the guy I was with in this village (Jeff, a Texan who sold his share in a corporation to teach illiterate children how to work with wood and metal) wrote a development proposal for the village in hopes of securing aid from the U.S. Embassy. We know that the village should have wrote it -- our impact/writing was contrary to development philosophy -- but even their most educated were not prepared to sit down and draft a proposal to an American funder. Anyway, Jeff drew maps and I did the wording in hopes to fund a food storage facility for their community crops. The community would provide all the labor -- all they needed was money to buy materials. Our budget, however, was sketchy at best and we were unable to identify a project supervisor. I really hope they are able to get over their hurdles and complete the process.
I never got to see the inside of my host's house, but what I could see looked crowded, dark, and dirty. I say "host's house," but I guess there really wasn't any sense of ownership. Parts of families might have their beds in several different houses. Aunts are mothers and cousins are brothers. We walked right through the middle of people's cook spaces to get where we were going. It is all very contrary to the American notion of privacy and the nuclear family. My room, however, was a small private room just off the side of the porch, i.e. you didn't have to go in the house proper to get in my room. I had expected that I would eat with the family (whatever that is), but instead their custom was to bring food to the stranger's room and let them eat by themself. I had some really great meals. Pineapple, coconut, cassava, banana, eggs, rice, beans, and different rice toppings (plasauces) made from groundnuts, cassava leafs, and/or potato leafs. People do some really creative things with the foods. I did witness several people dipping into a big bowl of monkey meat, complete with skulls and all.
My room was an interesting sleeping environment. Something (or things) that defied my attempts to expose it (them) to light kept me awake at night. Squeaking sounds, quick movement up walls, and a half-eaten banana led me to suspect a combination of lizard/cockroach/rat. On the third night I got my mosquito net up, giving me some peace of mind. On the fourth (and final) night I left candles burning all night. It kept things relatively quiet, although the combination of sleep, rodents, burning candles, and straw mattresses gave me something new to worry about.
No doubt, it was a very educational experience. I witnessed the building of a bridge from sticks, bamboo, and natural rope. I attended church at a small mission church outside the village. I was asked to bless the offering. After church, we witnessed the burial of a 12-year-old girl in the neighboring village. A very sad, somber occasion. Usually its pretty much only infants that die (and a lot of them) but once they get over the hump, these people are very healthy.
Learned some Temne. English was NOT widely spoken in Mayagba, and the custom is to greet everyone you meet. Luckily, the greetings are few and weren't too difficult to learn, but when people digressed or went past the greeting, I was sunk. Many people liked to sit around and teach Temne words and phrases, though. I had my first bucket baths, and used my first pit latrine. They won't be my last.
Now, as I run out of room, the real news: site placement announcements revealed yesterday that I will be teaching at the Kamakwee Wesleyan Secondary School, in Kamakwie, Northern Sierra Leone. Excited. I'll remember to write more about it next week, but at least we know where home will be.
Received one letter from Libor at Smith House, but am still awaiting yours. Looking forward to them.
Love, Mark
I never got to see the inside of my host's house, but what I could see looked crowded, dark, and dirty. I say "host's house," but I guess there really wasn't any sense of ownership. Parts of families might have their beds in several different houses. Aunts are mothers and cousins are brothers. We walked right through the middle of people's cook spaces to get where we were going. It is all very contrary to the American notion of privacy and the nuclear family. My room, however, was a small private room just off the side of the porch, i.e. you didn't have to go in the house proper to get in my room. I had expected that I would eat with the family (whatever that is), but instead their custom was to bring food to the stranger's room and let them eat by themself. I had some really great meals. Pineapple, coconut, cassava, banana, eggs, rice, beans, and different rice toppings (plasauces) made from groundnuts, cassava leafs, and/or potato leafs. People do some really creative things with the foods. I did witness several people dipping into a big bowl of monkey meat, complete with skulls and all.
My room was an interesting sleeping environment. Something (or things) that defied my attempts to expose it (them) to light kept me awake at night. Squeaking sounds, quick movement up walls, and a half-eaten banana led me to suspect a combination of lizard/cockroach/rat. On the third night I got my mosquito net up, giving me some peace of mind. On the fourth (and final) night I left candles burning all night. It kept things relatively quiet, although the combination of sleep, rodents, burning candles, and straw mattresses gave me something new to worry about.
No doubt, it was a very educational experience. I witnessed the building of a bridge from sticks, bamboo, and natural rope. I attended church at a small mission church outside the village. I was asked to bless the offering. After church, we witnessed the burial of a 12-year-old girl in the neighboring village. A very sad, somber occasion. Usually its pretty much only infants that die (and a lot of them) but once they get over the hump, these people are very healthy.
Learned some Temne. English was NOT widely spoken in Mayagba, and the custom is to greet everyone you meet. Luckily, the greetings are few and weren't too difficult to learn, but when people digressed or went past the greeting, I was sunk. Many people liked to sit around and teach Temne words and phrases, though. I had my first bucket baths, and used my first pit latrine. They won't be my last.
Now, as I run out of room, the real news: site placement announcements revealed yesterday that I will be teaching at the Kamakwee Wesleyan Secondary School, in Kamakwie, Northern Sierra Leone. Excited. I'll remember to write more about it next week, but at least we know where home will be.
Received one letter from Libor at Smith House, but am still awaiting yours. Looking forward to them.
Love, Mark
July 21, 1991
Training Days
Hello Bob, how are you?
Sunday nite at the Panlap Training Site. I'm wishing I'd kept better track of what I'd written to you last week so I don't leave things out, repeat, etc. Anyway, things continue to go well. The body has gone through a few of the changes -- mild fever, aches, diarrhea ("runny belly") -- but I'm feelin' pretty good today. I watched one of the Volunteers here go through a mild case of malaria in the past day or so. He got achy and his fever shot up around 104 degrees, but he took his Fansidar and is feeling better today. A lot of people don't get off so easy.
I was in classes all last week. The focus so far has been on Krio, culture, community development, medical, and "general orientation" type stuff. All is being done pretty well, I think. The staff here is very capable.
Yesterday afternoon, I participated in a practical on latrine building. We got to dig some on the hole and mix some concrete for the cover. It was a neat experience. It was particularly meaningful for me, because I was asked to give blessings for the work being done. I hadn't even noticed that the group was gathered -- I was over watching the hole being dug -- when I heard my name being called and saw everybody looking at me. I went over to the group. The African veterinarian in charge of the site said a few words and then gave me two kola nuts, explaining that "He who gives kola gives life." I then had everyone hold hands as I gave brief blessing to "the ancestors and any gods we call our own." I was well received. It felt really good to be selected by my peers for this honor. I certainly do have my place among them.
I made it back to Makeni last night for beer and a sandwich. I'm just not used to cities -- especially this kind. The roads are in disrepair, and poor vendors line the sides of the streets. I'd probably come to terms with it if I'd get into the middle of it and buy something, but so far I've just been an observer. I'd rather go to Panlap to Aunty Y's to sit in a bafa and sip palm wine. That's more my style. In 8 days I find out where my placement is. I know the options include a small village on a beach, just South of Freetown. I will envy whoever gets that assignment.
Do you hear any reports of the fighting here? We can't get anywhere near a lot of parts in the South. The propoganda you might hear (I'm not sure how much I can say here) is that rebel forces from Liberia led by Charles Taylor have looted up into and occupied parts of Sierra Leone. Other sources support the idea that the uprisings are internal. In any event, the occupation is likely to just dry up and go away -- at least that is what some say. The uprisings are not popular enough to be sustained.
On Thursday we will be placed in groups of three or four in villages to live for several days. I'm looking forward to another trip to a village. I've been visited the last several nights by a group (5-6) of children from Panlap. I got to know one of the gatekeepers here (Mohammad), so I guess his little brother came to see this Mark character. I was completely surprised the first night. They came to the dorm window, apparently, asking for Mark. One of my fellow trainees found me in the dining hall and announced I had guests. Here I found Philip, Aja, Benjamin, and Franceska. I had no idea who they were or where they'd come from. I was just lucky to suspect Mohammad and ask the children if they knew him. "Yes," said Philip, "he is my brother." I wish he's just come out and said it, but that isn't their way. We went to Panlap and I bought them all sodas. Then, the Paramount Chief shows up. I said "Chief," (probably a good thing I don't know his first name) "can I buy you a beer?" He says "I never turn down a good offer." This guy's picture is in a Smithsonian exhibit titled "Paramount Chiefs of Sierra Leone" and I buy him a beer. Cool. He severed up palm wine and told stories and answered questions. Then we dropped off the young'uns on the way back.
The next night they appeared again, and sat quietly for about 90 minutes while I was teaching a girl how to play chess. There were six of them then -- another cousin and a boy named Ishmael. When they told me they wanted to go, I walked them to the gate and watched them disappear in the night. If they return, I'll take pictures.
I haven't heard from anyone yet. Still, I look forward to your letters. Hoping you are well.
Love, Mark
Sunday nite at the Panlap Training Site. I'm wishing I'd kept better track of what I'd written to you last week so I don't leave things out, repeat, etc. Anyway, things continue to go well. The body has gone through a few of the changes -- mild fever, aches, diarrhea ("runny belly") -- but I'm feelin' pretty good today. I watched one of the Volunteers here go through a mild case of malaria in the past day or so. He got achy and his fever shot up around 104 degrees, but he took his Fansidar and is feeling better today. A lot of people don't get off so easy.
I was in classes all last week. The focus so far has been on Krio, culture, community development, medical, and "general orientation" type stuff. All is being done pretty well, I think. The staff here is very capable.
Yesterday afternoon, I participated in a practical on latrine building. We got to dig some on the hole and mix some concrete for the cover. It was a neat experience. It was particularly meaningful for me, because I was asked to give blessings for the work being done. I hadn't even noticed that the group was gathered -- I was over watching the hole being dug -- when I heard my name being called and saw everybody looking at me. I went over to the group. The African veterinarian in charge of the site said a few words and then gave me two kola nuts, explaining that "He who gives kola gives life." I then had everyone hold hands as I gave brief blessing to "the ancestors and any gods we call our own." I was well received. It felt really good to be selected by my peers for this honor. I certainly do have my place among them.
I made it back to Makeni last night for beer and a sandwich. I'm just not used to cities -- especially this kind. The roads are in disrepair, and poor vendors line the sides of the streets. I'd probably come to terms with it if I'd get into the middle of it and buy something, but so far I've just been an observer. I'd rather go to Panlap to Aunty Y's to sit in a bafa and sip palm wine. That's more my style. In 8 days I find out where my placement is. I know the options include a small village on a beach, just South of Freetown. I will envy whoever gets that assignment.
Do you hear any reports of the fighting here? We can't get anywhere near a lot of parts in the South. The propoganda you might hear (I'm not sure how much I can say here) is that rebel forces from Liberia led by Charles Taylor have looted up into and occupied parts of Sierra Leone. Other sources support the idea that the uprisings are internal. In any event, the occupation is likely to just dry up and go away -- at least that is what some say. The uprisings are not popular enough to be sustained.
On Thursday we will be placed in groups of three or four in villages to live for several days. I'm looking forward to another trip to a village. I've been visited the last several nights by a group (5-6) of children from Panlap. I got to know one of the gatekeepers here (Mohammad), so I guess his little brother came to see this Mark character. I was completely surprised the first night. They came to the dorm window, apparently, asking for Mark. One of my fellow trainees found me in the dining hall and announced I had guests. Here I found Philip, Aja, Benjamin, and Franceska. I had no idea who they were or where they'd come from. I was just lucky to suspect Mohammad and ask the children if they knew him. "Yes," said Philip, "he is my brother." I wish he's just come out and said it, but that isn't their way. We went to Panlap and I bought them all sodas. Then, the Paramount Chief shows up. I said "Chief," (probably a good thing I don't know his first name) "can I buy you a beer?" He says "I never turn down a good offer." This guy's picture is in a Smithsonian exhibit titled "Paramount Chiefs of Sierra Leone" and I buy him a beer. Cool. He severed up palm wine and told stories and answered questions. Then we dropped off the young'uns on the way back.
The next night they appeared again, and sat quietly for about 90 minutes while I was teaching a girl how to play chess. There were six of them then -- another cousin and a boy named Ishmael. When they told me they wanted to go, I walked them to the gate and watched them disappear in the night. If they return, I'll take pictures.
I haven't heard from anyone yet. Still, I look forward to your letters. Hoping you are well.
Love, Mark
July 12, 1991
Arrival
Shit, Bob, I'm in Africa.
Day 2-1/2 or so. The lag on the flight to Europe seriously messed with my time clock. Six hours from Paris to Freetown and a four hour bus trip to the PANLAP training site completed a 40 (or so) hour virtually sleepless journey. Arriving about 2 AM, we first spent some time meeting our training staff, made up mostly of Sierra Leoneans.
(Aside) I just looked to the North to see the sun drawing down about to the level of the palm trees. The few clouds send a multitude of colors into the lower sky. As I sit and contemplate this beautiful site, I ask myself "Why is the sun setting in the North?" and then I think "Gee, its going to be a long two years if I have no sense of direction."
Anyway, yesterday we got up fairly late (noon or so) and ate a hearty spaghetti meal. They will be weaning us onto African foods. The staff hired a small band of bamboo pipe blowers, drum pounders and cowbell-like-thing beaters. We followed (traveled with) the indigenous music makers to a village (Panlap) about a mile, uh, north of here. Lots of folk came out to smile and wave as our procession processed to the reception hut of the paramount tribal chief of the chiefdom I now reside in. After rituals of introduction and exchange of cola nuts, I got my picture taken with the chief. Should be cool.
The trip back included a bunch of youngsters who wanted to hold our hands. When we got back to the site, they sang and danced for us before moving on. That night, our staff put on a show of song and dance. First a song highlighting seven different languages here, and then we sang along with a recording of Three Dog Night singing "Joy to the World." Last nite I sat outside (about where I am now) and wrote the parents. About half of us sat outside and wrote letters/journals, asking questions of each other about names of places we had been.
I got the dreaded Gamma Globulin shot yesterday (along with a rabies shot) which is notoriously painful. The initial needle isn't so bad, but walking back to the main hall was a chore, and I could still feel it a little today. Everyone agrees, however, that the shot is less of an ordeal than Hepatitis A.
This is quite a beautiful place. Mountains, surface waters, palm trees, vegetation. However, diseases fatal to those of us who haven't evolved out of it await us in all these places. The MD gave quite a lengthy and compelling lecture today on the value of medications and personal hygene. Made a believer out of me.
[Next day, July 13]
Walked to MAKENI last night after that sunset, about 2 miles, uh, south of here. Went to a little veranda/bar with a bunch of Volunteers who showed up to present a panel discussion. Paid 130 Leones for an orange soda (about $0.45) and a beer for 200 Leones (about $0.65). STAR beer. Pretty good stuff.
The Country Director posed a question to some of us math types. Apparently, he believes that some of the fuel is being cyphoned off in transit to the training site. The fuel, which runs the generators here, is quite a precious commodity. Anyway, we are going to figure out volumes of the tank and increments of fullness to determine if some is being lost (or if we are getting what we pay for). Anyway, hence the scratches above. Didn't want to waste the paper.
I just got back from a village visit. Eight of us went with two Sierra Leone staff people to the village of Roketteh, a little place, uh, east (?) of MAKENI. I guess there are about 500 in Roketteh. Makeni is closer to 30,000. This was SO COOL. First, different folk showed us around. When we got back to the middle of the village, three women were making music with drums while several of us danced. We each paid about 20-30 Leones to the women. We went into a reception area then and met the chief (not a paramount chief) who was wearing a "Buffalo News" orange stocking cap. The people here (mostly the men) wear a lot of T-shirts from the West. One kid had a JOURNEY concert T-shirt on. Anyway, there was a short welcoming ceremony conducted in Temne (we had an interpreter) and included gifts of coconut and a dish of rice and cassava leaf. Good stuff. They opened the coconuts which were brimming with clear milk. Good stuff.
They love to have their picture taken. I pull out the Olympus and there are 20 kids trying to crowd into the focus area. They don't get too close or too far away and they seem to know how many will fit into the frame. I don't have to change the focal length or anything. *CLICK* and lots of smiles.
More dancing and Temne words, and then we came back. Times like this make me really glad to be here. Everything I've ever read, heard, or seen about African culture, food, music, dance, and spirit is being played out before me. And I'm a player in it, too. Well, almost.
Other times, I really feel the stress. Yesterday I got hit with the feeling that my loved ones are 2 years away and that something totally foreign awaits me. Huge bugs. Malaria. Heat. New people. A language or two I don't understand. Monday we begin Krio. On the 29th we get our site placements (though we don't move there for two months). Exciting and scary. They say that's how it's supposed to be.
Looking forward to your letters.
Love, Mark
Day 2-1/2 or so. The lag on the flight to Europe seriously messed with my time clock. Six hours from Paris to Freetown and a four hour bus trip to the PANLAP training site completed a 40 (or so) hour virtually sleepless journey. Arriving about 2 AM, we first spent some time meeting our training staff, made up mostly of Sierra Leoneans.
(Aside) I just looked to the North to see the sun drawing down about to the level of the palm trees. The few clouds send a multitude of colors into the lower sky. As I sit and contemplate this beautiful site, I ask myself "Why is the sun setting in the North?" and then I think "Gee, its going to be a long two years if I have no sense of direction."
Anyway, yesterday we got up fairly late (noon or so) and ate a hearty spaghetti meal. They will be weaning us onto African foods. The staff hired a small band of bamboo pipe blowers, drum pounders and cowbell-like-thing beaters. We followed (traveled with) the indigenous music makers to a village (Panlap) about a mile, uh, north of here. Lots of folk came out to smile and wave as our procession processed to the reception hut of the paramount tribal chief of the chiefdom I now reside in. After rituals of introduction and exchange of cola nuts, I got my picture taken with the chief. Should be cool.
The trip back included a bunch of youngsters who wanted to hold our hands. When we got back to the site, they sang and danced for us before moving on. That night, our staff put on a show of song and dance. First a song highlighting seven different languages here, and then we sang along with a recording of Three Dog Night singing "Joy to the World." Last nite I sat outside (about where I am now) and wrote the parents. About half of us sat outside and wrote letters/journals, asking questions of each other about names of places we had been.
I got the dreaded Gamma Globulin shot yesterday (along with a rabies shot) which is notoriously painful. The initial needle isn't so bad, but walking back to the main hall was a chore, and I could still feel it a little today. Everyone agrees, however, that the shot is less of an ordeal than Hepatitis A.
This is quite a beautiful place. Mountains, surface waters, palm trees, vegetation. However, diseases fatal to those of us who haven't evolved out of it await us in all these places. The MD gave quite a lengthy and compelling lecture today on the value of medications and personal hygene. Made a believer out of me.
[Next day, July 13]
Walked to MAKENI last night after that sunset, about 2 miles, uh, south of here. Went to a little veranda/bar with a bunch of Volunteers who showed up to present a panel discussion. Paid 130 Leones for an orange soda (about $0.45) and a beer for 200 Leones (about $0.65). STAR beer. Pretty good stuff.
The Country Director posed a question to some of us math types. Apparently, he believes that some of the fuel is being cyphoned off in transit to the training site. The fuel, which runs the generators here, is quite a precious commodity. Anyway, we are going to figure out volumes of the tank and increments of fullness to determine if some is being lost (or if we are getting what we pay for). Anyway, hence the scratches above. Didn't want to waste the paper.
I just got back from a village visit. Eight of us went with two Sierra Leone staff people to the village of Roketteh, a little place, uh, east (?) of MAKENI. I guess there are about 500 in Roketteh. Makeni is closer to 30,000. This was SO COOL. First, different folk showed us around. When we got back to the middle of the village, three women were making music with drums while several of us danced. We each paid about 20-30 Leones to the women. We went into a reception area then and met the chief (not a paramount chief) who was wearing a "Buffalo News" orange stocking cap. The people here (mostly the men) wear a lot of T-shirts from the West. One kid had a JOURNEY concert T-shirt on. Anyway, there was a short welcoming ceremony conducted in Temne (we had an interpreter) and included gifts of coconut and a dish of rice and cassava leaf. Good stuff. They opened the coconuts which were brimming with clear milk. Good stuff.
They love to have their picture taken. I pull out the Olympus and there are 20 kids trying to crowd into the focus area. They don't get too close or too far away and they seem to know how many will fit into the frame. I don't have to change the focal length or anything. *CLICK* and lots of smiles.
More dancing and Temne words, and then we came back. Times like this make me really glad to be here. Everything I've ever read, heard, or seen about African culture, food, music, dance, and spirit is being played out before me. And I'm a player in it, too. Well, almost.
Other times, I really feel the stress. Yesterday I got hit with the feeling that my loved ones are 2 years away and that something totally foreign awaits me. Huge bugs. Malaria. Heat. New people. A language or two I don't understand. Monday we begin Krio. On the 29th we get our site placements (though we don't move there for two months). Exciting and scary. They say that's how it's supposed to be.
Looking forward to your letters.
Love, Mark
July 07, 1991
Checklist of Things to Take
Rain suit (pants/jacket)
Umbrella
Short wave radio
AA batteries
Walkman
cassettes
Film
Camera
Cards
Swiss Army Knife
Canteen
Backpack
Medium pack
Stamps
Plastic bags
Driver's License
Mail stuff
Hiking shoes
Rubber boots
Tennis shoes
Dress shoes
Sandals
Towels
binoculars
Extra glasses
Swim suit
Lock(s)
Fingernail kit
Shampoo/conditioner
Soap
Baby power
Shorts
Sweatshirt
Casual pants
jeans (2)
Dress pants (3-4)
shorts (3)
T-shirts (8)
Dress shirts
Underwear (24)
socks
dress socks
Converter 220-110
Shaving cream
Alarm clock
Watches
Frisbee
Umbrella
Short wave radio
AA batteries
Walkman
cassettes
Film
Camera
Cards
Swiss Army Knife
Canteen
Backpack
Medium pack
Stamps
Plastic bags
Driver's License
Mail stuff
Hiking shoes
Rubber boots
Tennis shoes
Dress shoes
Sandals
Towels
binoculars
Extra glasses
Swim suit
Lock(s)
Fingernail kit
Shampoo/conditioner
Soap
Baby power
Shorts
Sweatshirt
Casual pants
jeans (2)
Dress pants (3-4)
shorts (3)
T-shirts (8)
Dress shirts
Underwear (24)
socks
dress socks
Converter 220-110
Shaving cream
Alarm clock
Watches
Frisbee
April 18, 1991
The Invitation
The United States Peace Corps
1990 K Street, NW
Washington, DC 20526
Mr. Mark Hager
331 N 17th
Manhattan, KS 66502
Dear Mr. Hager:
It is with great pleasure that I am writing to inform you that you are invited to enter training for Peace Corps Volunteer service.
Please review all of the enclosed materials carefully. Though your invitation is contingent upon final medical, legal and security clearances, you have reached a crucial decision point in the application process. Now it is particularly important for you to examine your motivation and your expectations. We believe that you are ready to make a firm commitment to volunteer service, but the decision must, of course, be your own.
If you decide to accept our invitation, you must telephone our Placement Office within ten (10) days. Instructions for calling in your decision are listed in the enclosed Invitation booklet. If we have not heard from you within that time period, we will assume that you are no longer interested or available and will withdraw the invitation. The reason for this is so that we can invite another applicant in order to guarantee that the assignment is filled on time.
Regardless of your decision, I thank you for the personal interest you have expressed in world peace and friendship. I strongly encourage you to rededicate that interest by accepting this invitation and joining more than 140,000 Americans who have been proud to make a difference as Peace Corps Volunteers.
It is not easy -- building peace never is -- but it is needed -- now more than ever.
Sincerely,
Jill Nadler
Volunteer Placement Officer
Human Services Division
Office of Placement
1990 K Street, NW
Washington, DC 20526
Mr. Mark Hager
331 N 17th
Manhattan, KS 66502
Dear Mr. Hager:
It is with great pleasure that I am writing to inform you that you are invited to enter training for Peace Corps Volunteer service.
Please review all of the enclosed materials carefully. Though your invitation is contingent upon final medical, legal and security clearances, you have reached a crucial decision point in the application process. Now it is particularly important for you to examine your motivation and your expectations. We believe that you are ready to make a firm commitment to volunteer service, but the decision must, of course, be your own.
If you decide to accept our invitation, you must telephone our Placement Office within ten (10) days. Instructions for calling in your decision are listed in the enclosed Invitation booklet. If we have not heard from you within that time period, we will assume that you are no longer interested or available and will withdraw the invitation. The reason for this is so that we can invite another applicant in order to guarantee that the assignment is filled on time.
Regardless of your decision, I thank you for the personal interest you have expressed in world peace and friendship. I strongly encourage you to rededicate that interest by accepting this invitation and joining more than 140,000 Americans who have been proud to make a difference as Peace Corps Volunteers.
It is not easy -- building peace never is -- but it is needed -- now more than ever.
Sincerely,
Jill Nadler
Volunteer Placement Officer
Human Services Division
Office of Placement
January 23, 1991
The Nomination Letter Arrives
United States Peace Corps
Mission, Kansas 66202
Mark Hager
331 N 17th
Manhattan, KS 66502
Dear Mark,
Congratulations! We succeeded in nominating you f or the U.S. Peace Corps assignment area called Secondary Education/Math. Your program number is 173-91-04,01. Keep the program name and number handy; you may need them in future contacts with us. Remember, this is not an invitation; you are still competing with other applicants for the same skill area, but you have taken a major step in becoming a U.S. Peace Corps Volunteer.
It has been a pleasure working with you and we in Kansas City want to continue to be your main link with Peace Corps and assist you in any way we can. For that reason, I would like you to call me in a few weeks so I can answer any question you have and hear how you are doing with the selection process.
Your application has been forwarded to the Evaluation Unit in Washington, DC, where references and other information will be collected. You will receive a letter regarding the status of your application as soon as a decision on your eligibility has been made. If you have not already done so, please contact your references to ensure that they will complete the reference form and return it to the Evaluation Unit in Washington, DC. One of the main reasons for delay in applicant processing is the late return of the enclosed fingerprint chart, background form, and references.
If you are found eligible, your application will be forwarded from the Evaluation Unit to the Placement Office. Your application will be considered along with those of other candidates for the position(s) in which you expressed an interest. You should realize that not all candidates meet the criteria for becoming a Trainee. Often, there are more eligible applicants for a position than can be invited. In these cases, you may be asked to consider another assignment or wait for future openings. As some point you will be asked to take a medical/dental examination and file an application for a passport. We will send you the forms and instructions later in the placement process.
Circumstances may arise that prevent you from fulfilling your commitment. If this occurs, please notify us immediately so that we can attempt to recruit another candidate.
If you need information about your application status, or want to add information to your file such as change of address, availability date, or marital status, you may call us toll free at 800-424-8580, Ext. 2224. Any member of the Evaluation Unit will be glad to assist you.
Lastly, keep a copy of all papers mailed in case something is lost or misplaced. Peace Corps in Washington, DC, will attempt to issue invitations at least two months before your Training start date. Do not make final plans to stop what you are doing (i.e., quit your job, sell your house/car, etc.) until a final invitation is issued. All forms must be completed before Washington staff will review your file.
We hope to help you complete the above procedures with a minimum of delay and error. Remember, we are available to assist you and want you to keep us informed of any problems you may encounter, any final decisions made and of any invitations extended to you.
Good luck!
Sincerely,
Derek Stanfill
U.S. Peace Corps Representative
Mission, Kansas 66202
Mark Hager
331 N 17th
Manhattan, KS 66502
Dear Mark,
Congratulations! We succeeded in nominating you f or the U.S. Peace Corps assignment area called Secondary Education/Math. Your program number is 173-91-04,01. Keep the program name and number handy; you may need them in future contacts with us. Remember, this is not an invitation; you are still competing with other applicants for the same skill area, but you have taken a major step in becoming a U.S. Peace Corps Volunteer.
It has been a pleasure working with you and we in Kansas City want to continue to be your main link with Peace Corps and assist you in any way we can. For that reason, I would like you to call me in a few weeks so I can answer any question you have and hear how you are doing with the selection process.
Your application has been forwarded to the Evaluation Unit in Washington, DC, where references and other information will be collected. You will receive a letter regarding the status of your application as soon as a decision on your eligibility has been made. If you have not already done so, please contact your references to ensure that they will complete the reference form and return it to the Evaluation Unit in Washington, DC. One of the main reasons for delay in applicant processing is the late return of the enclosed fingerprint chart, background form, and references.
If you are found eligible, your application will be forwarded from the Evaluation Unit to the Placement Office. Your application will be considered along with those of other candidates for the position(s) in which you expressed an interest. You should realize that not all candidates meet the criteria for becoming a Trainee. Often, there are more eligible applicants for a position than can be invited. In these cases, you may be asked to consider another assignment or wait for future openings. As some point you will be asked to take a medical/dental examination and file an application for a passport. We will send you the forms and instructions later in the placement process.
Circumstances may arise that prevent you from fulfilling your commitment. If this occurs, please notify us immediately so that we can attempt to recruit another candidate.
If you need information about your application status, or want to add information to your file such as change of address, availability date, or marital status, you may call us toll free at 800-424-8580, Ext. 2224. Any member of the Evaluation Unit will be glad to assist you.
Lastly, keep a copy of all papers mailed in case something is lost or misplaced. Peace Corps in Washington, DC, will attempt to issue invitations at least two months before your Training start date. Do not make final plans to stop what you are doing (i.e., quit your job, sell your house/car, etc.) until a final invitation is issued. All forms must be completed before Washington staff will review your file.
We hope to help you complete the above procedures with a minimum of delay and error. Remember, we are available to assist you and want you to keep us informed of any problems you may encounter, any final decisions made and of any invitations extended to you.
Good luck!
Sincerely,
Derek Stanfill
U.S. Peace Corps Representative
December 11, 1990
Graduation Letter from Bob
Manhattan, Kansas 66502
Dear Mark,
On Saturday the Kansas Board of Regents will confer upon you the baccalaureate degree, an achievement for which you, your family and friends are justifiably proud. I am extremely honored to attend the ceremony and reception, and extend to you my warmest congratulations on your accomplishments.
This graduation commemorates an important milestone in your life. It is a rite of passage from childhood to adulthood; it symbolizes society's legitimation of your capabilities as a productive person. And, in the eyes of the faculty and others who took part in nurturing your intellectual and spiritual growth over the past few years, this occasion brings with it hope for your responsible citizenship in the years ahead.
This occasion also brings with it an air of uncertainty. Where will you be three, six, nine months from now? In the Peace Corps? In seminary? In graduate school? If so, where? Lawrence? Minneapolis? You face serious choices, and you will make hard decisions.
Those of us who know and love you have every confidence that you will make the right decisions, difficult though they may be. And, to be sure, you will face many other hard choices in the years ahead. You have much to offer, and we are sure that you will accomplish great things with your talents.
I offer no material gift at this time to commemorate your graduation; that will come later, as I already have noted. But I do wish now to offer for your consideration two pearls of wisdom, composed by others, as you embark on the next stage of your life.
A writer unknown to me devised the following admonition that appeared, of all places, on the side of a tea box:
Watch your thoughts; they become words.
Watch your words; they become actions.
Watch your actions; they become habits.
Watch your habits; they become your character.
Watch your character; for it becomes your destiny.
But perhaps the most powerful guidepost for living (at least for me), which I have shared with you before, is this simple yet elegant passage found in Micah:
He has shown you, O Man, what is good.
And what does the Lord require of you,
but to seek justice,
love kindness,
and walk humbly with your God?
Sage words, indeed! A just, kind, and humble approach to living. What better ingredients are there?
Your time at Kansas State University has been rich and energizing for you, Mark. And you have many great, productive, and satisfying years ahead. Make the most of them!
Congratulations!
Love, Bob
Dear Mark,
On Saturday the Kansas Board of Regents will confer upon you the baccalaureate degree, an achievement for which you, your family and friends are justifiably proud. I am extremely honored to attend the ceremony and reception, and extend to you my warmest congratulations on your accomplishments.
This graduation commemorates an important milestone in your life. It is a rite of passage from childhood to adulthood; it symbolizes society's legitimation of your capabilities as a productive person. And, in the eyes of the faculty and others who took part in nurturing your intellectual and spiritual growth over the past few years, this occasion brings with it hope for your responsible citizenship in the years ahead.
This occasion also brings with it an air of uncertainty. Where will you be three, six, nine months from now? In the Peace Corps? In seminary? In graduate school? If so, where? Lawrence? Minneapolis? You face serious choices, and you will make hard decisions.
Those of us who know and love you have every confidence that you will make the right decisions, difficult though they may be. And, to be sure, you will face many other hard choices in the years ahead. You have much to offer, and we are sure that you will accomplish great things with your talents.
I offer no material gift at this time to commemorate your graduation; that will come later, as I already have noted. But I do wish now to offer for your consideration two pearls of wisdom, composed by others, as you embark on the next stage of your life.
A writer unknown to me devised the following admonition that appeared, of all places, on the side of a tea box:
Watch your thoughts; they become words.
Watch your words; they become actions.
Watch your actions; they become habits.
Watch your habits; they become your character.
Watch your character; for it becomes your destiny.
But perhaps the most powerful guidepost for living (at least for me), which I have shared with you before, is this simple yet elegant passage found in Micah:
He has shown you, O Man, what is good.
And what does the Lord require of you,
but to seek justice,
love kindness,
and walk humbly with your God?
Sage words, indeed! A just, kind, and humble approach to living. What better ingredients are there?
Your time at Kansas State University has been rich and energizing for you, Mark. And you have many great, productive, and satisfying years ahead. Make the most of them!
Congratulations!
Love, Bob
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)